Free Amigurumi Crochet Red Panda Pattern
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 50g approx of Rust (388) for Body, Head, Ears and Tail.
CC1: 30g approx of Jet Black (110) for Arms, Legs, Tail, Nose, Eyes and Embroidered Details.
CC2: 20 g approx of Camel (502) for Muzzle, Ears, Tail, Paws and Embroidered Details.
CC3: 10 g approx of Bridal White (105) for Muzzle, Ears and Embroidered Details.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 50g approx of Rust (388) for Body, Head, Ears and Tail.
CC1: 30g approx of Jet Black (110) for Arms, Legs, Tail, Nose, Eyes and Embroidered Details.
CC2: 20 g approx of Camel (502) for Muzzle, Ears, Tail, Paws and Embroidered Details.
CC3: 10 g approx of Bridal White (105) for Muzzle, Ears and Embroidered Details.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Hook
2mm
I usually use a 3mm hook for my Ami but this time I used a 2mm, as I wanted the stitches to be very snug to make sure the stuffing wouldn't show through on the black elements. The pattern will work fine with a 3mm hook.
2mm
I usually use a 3mm hook for my Ami but this time I used a 2mm, as I wanted the stitches to be very snug to make sure the stuffing wouldn't show through on the black elements. The pattern will work fine with a 3mm hook.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
20 cm (8 in) approx from head to tail.
20 cm (8 in) approx from head to tail.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
The Tail is worked in joined rounds - full instructions are included in the Tail section of the pattern - please read these carefully before you start to make the Tail.
Where colour changes are indicated, they take place on the last yrh of the last dc of the previous rnd.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Red Panda is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
The Tail is worked in joined rounds - full instructions are included in the Tail section of the pattern - please read these carefully before you start to make the Tail.
Where colour changes are indicated, they take place on the last yrh of the last dc of the previous rnd.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Red Panda is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Body
Worked from the bottom upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 10: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog]6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 14- 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 18-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 22-24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 26-28: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Body onto the Head, once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 10: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog]6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 14- 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 18-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 22-24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 26-28: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Body onto the Head, once you've made all the parts.
Head
Worked from the bottom of the Head upwards. Chains are not included in the stitch count. This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you're unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 6dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 6 dc in other side of ch, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 6: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 7: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st, 6 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 48 sts
Rnd 8: 6 dc, [2 dc in next st, 7 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 54 sts
Rnds 9-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 15-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 19-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around.
Rnd 27: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 28: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 29: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Worked from the bottom of the Head upwards. Chains are not included in the stitch count. This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you're unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 6dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 6 dc in other side of ch, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 6: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 7: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st, 6 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 48 sts
Rnd 8: 6 dc, [2 dc in next st, 7 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 54 sts
Rnds 9-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 15-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 19-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around.
Rnd 27: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 28: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 29: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Muzzle
Worked from the front of the Muzzle back towards the Head. Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-9: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 10: Working in the FLO for the whole round, [2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnd 11: [2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 42 sts
Rnd 12: [2 dc in next st, 12 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 48 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Muzzle to the Head when you've made all the parts.
Worked from the front of the Muzzle back towards the Head. Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-9: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 10: Working in the FLO for the whole round, [2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnd 11: [2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 42 sts
Rnd 12: [2 dc in next st, 12 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 48 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Muzzle to the Head when you've made all the parts.
Nose
Worked from the tip of the Nose back. The Nose is flattened in half before it is sewn on.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Muzzle when you've made all the parts.
Worked from the tip of the Nose back. The Nose is flattened in half before it is sewn on.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Muzzle when you've made all the parts.
Ears - make 2
Each ear is worked in two parts - front and back - which are then crocheted together. Do not stuff.
Front of Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Change to CC3.
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice, leave the rest of the round unworked. 20 sts
Fasten off. The yarn tails will be hidden within the Ear when it is assembled.
Back of Ear - make 2
With CC1 for all the rounds, work Rnds 1-5 of the Front of Ear pattern above.
Fasten off. The yarn tails will be hidden within the Ear when it is assembled.
To Join the Front and Back of Ear:
Take one Front and one Back and hold them back to back, with the unworked stitches of Rnd 4 on each at the bottom as you hold them, and the Front of the Ear facing you.
Rnd 6: Attach MC in the first dc of Rnd 5 of the Front of the Ear and, starting in that stitch, and working through both the Front and Back layers at once, work 1 dc in each st of Rnd 5. 20 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long MC yarn tail to sew the Ear to the Head once you've made all the parts. The remaining yarn tails can be trimmed to around 3.5cm/1.5 in and tucked up inside the joined Ear. You do not need to join the bottom edges as these will be stitched to the Head later.
Each ear is worked in two parts - front and back - which are then crocheted together. Do not stuff.
Front of Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Change to CC3.
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice, leave the rest of the round unworked. 20 sts
Fasten off. The yarn tails will be hidden within the Ear when it is assembled.
Back of Ear - make 2
With CC1 for all the rounds, work Rnds 1-5 of the Front of Ear pattern above.
Fasten off. The yarn tails will be hidden within the Ear when it is assembled.
To Join the Front and Back of Ear:
Take one Front and one Back and hold them back to back, with the unworked stitches of Rnd 4 on each at the bottom as you hold them, and the Front of the Ear facing you.
Rnd 6: Attach MC in the first dc of Rnd 5 of the Front of the Ear and, starting in that stitch, and working through both the Front and Back layers at once, work 1 dc in each st of Rnd 5. 20 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long MC yarn tail to sew the Ear to the Head once you've made all the parts. The remaining yarn tails can be trimmed to around 3.5cm/1.5 in and tucked up inside the joined Ear. You do not need to join the bottom edges as these will be stitched to the Head later.
Arms - make 2
Made from the Paw up towards the shoulder. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in each st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [2dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 12 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 12 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 7: 3 dc2tog, 12 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 9-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 14-17: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've finished making all the parts.
Made from the Paw up towards the shoulder. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in each st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [2dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 12 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 12 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 7: 3 dc2tog, 12 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 9-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 14-17: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've finished making all the parts.
Legs - make 2
Made from the Paw up towards the Body. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 15 dc. 27 sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 15 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 8: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 15 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 9: 3 dc2tog, 15 dc. 18 sts
Rnds 10-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [1 dc, 1dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you've finished making all the parts.
Made from the Paw up towards the Body. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 15 dc. 27 sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 15 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 8: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 15 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 9: 3 dc2tog, 15 dc. 18 sts
Rnds 10-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [1 dc, 1dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you've finished making all the parts.
Small Paw Pads - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, join with a sl st in beg dc. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Pad to the Arms once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, join with a sl st in beg dc. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Pad to the Arms once you've made all the parts.
Large Paw Pads - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, join with a sl st in beg dc. 18 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Pad to the Legs once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, join with a sl st in beg dc. 18 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Pad to the Legs once you've made all the parts.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in first dc of round to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in first dc of round to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Tail
The Tail is made using joined rounds to give neat stripes without a "step" between the colours. This method does create a diagonal seam but it is less noticeable than a "step" would be - you can just see it In the photo above.
Join each rnd with a sl st in BLO of beg dc then work first st of next rnd into both loops of same dc as join. From the 2nd joined rnd onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from prev rnd. Do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins do not count in the st count for each rnd.
Remember to change colour on the last yrh of the last dc of the previous rnd.
You can find a PHOTO TUTORIAL for How To Crochet Perfect Stripes HERE.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc, join in BLO. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, join. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around, join.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, join. 18 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around, join.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, join. 24 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around, join.
Change to MC.
Rnds 8-10: Dc around, join.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 11-12: Dc around, join.
Change to MC.
Rnds 13-15: Dc around, join.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 16-17: Dc around, join.
Change to MC.
Rnds 18-20: Dc around, join.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 21-22: Dc around, join.
Change to MC.
Rnds 23-25: Dc around, join.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 26-27: Dc around, join.
Change to MC.
Rnds 28-29: Dc around, join.
Rnd 30: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times, join. 18 sts
Rnd 31: Dc around, join.
Rnd 32: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times, join. 12 sts
Rnd 33: Dc around, join.
Rnd 34: Dc around, sl st through both loops of beg dc to join.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Tail to the Body once you've made all the parts
The Tail is made using joined rounds to give neat stripes without a "step" between the colours. This method does create a diagonal seam but it is less noticeable than a "step" would be - you can just see it In the photo above.
Join each rnd with a sl st in BLO of beg dc then work first st of next rnd into both loops of same dc as join. From the 2nd joined rnd onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from prev rnd. Do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins do not count in the st count for each rnd.
Remember to change colour on the last yrh of the last dc of the previous rnd.
You can find a PHOTO TUTORIAL for How To Crochet Perfect Stripes HERE.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc, join in BLO. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, join. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around, join.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, join. 18 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around, join.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, join. 24 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around, join.
Change to MC.
Rnds 8-10: Dc around, join.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 11-12: Dc around, join.
Change to MC.
Rnds 13-15: Dc around, join.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 16-17: Dc around, join.
Change to MC.
Rnds 18-20: Dc around, join.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 21-22: Dc around, join.
Change to MC.
Rnds 23-25: Dc around, join.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 26-27: Dc around, join.
Change to MC.
Rnds 28-29: Dc around, join.
Rnd 30: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times, join. 18 sts
Rnd 31: Dc around, join.
Rnd 32: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times, join. 12 sts
Rnd 33: Dc around, join.
Rnd 34: Dc around, sl st through both loops of beg dc to join.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Tail to the Body once you've made all the parts
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the middle of the Body, under the bottom and up the back. Do the same down the centre line of the Head (the wider, flatter sides of the Head are the front and back), also taking them under and up the back of the Head - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central lines. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the middle of the Body, under the bottom and up the back. Do the same down the centre line of the Head (the wider, flatter sides of the Head are the front and back), also taking them under and up the back of the Head - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central lines. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
- Sew the Body to the Head (lining up the two rows of pins if you are using them).
- Sew the Muzzle to the Head. Its top point should sit about 8 Rnds down from the top of the Head.
- Sew the flattened Nose onto the Muzzle - its bottom point should sit on the first rnd of the Muzzle.
- Sew the Eyes in place - their bottom edges should sit just on top of the Muzzle.
- Sew the Ears in place on the Head - their top corners should sit roughly 5 rnds down from the top of the Head, they should curve slightly and their bottom corner should sit roughly 8 stitches back from where the side of the Muzzle is stitched to the Head. It is easiest to stitch along the back of the Ear first to create the curve and then stitch along the front.
- Sew the Arms in place either side of the Body, attaching them about one rnd down from where the Head and Body join and making sure the paws are facing forwards.
- Sew the Legs in place on the base of the Body, set forward slightly so the Red Panda can sit on his bottom, attaching them roughly in line with Rnd 5 of the Body and making sure the paws are facing forwards.
- Sew the Small Paw Pads to the bottom of the Arms and the Large Paw Pads to the bottom of the Legs.
- Sew the Tail in place, centred on the back of the Body and with the bottom edge of the join sitting roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Body.
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following:
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following:
- With CC1 & CC2, embroider the rows of decorative V stitches on the Red Panda's belly.
- With CC1, embroider his mouth.
- With CC3, embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye, the decorative stitches on each side of the Muzzle and three claws on each of the paws. See photo below showing claw detail.
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS