Free Amigurumi Crochet Walrus Pattern
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 50g approx of Jade (514) for Head and Body and Flippers.
CC1: Small amount of Chrystalline (385) for Muzzle.
CC2: Small amount of Bridal White (105) for Tusks and Embroidered Details.
CC3: Small Amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes, Nose and Embroidered Details.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 50g approx of Jade (514) for Head and Body and Flippers.
CC1: Small amount of Chrystalline (385) for Muzzle.
CC2: Small amount of Bridal White (105) for Tusks and Embroidered Details.
CC3: Small Amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes, Nose and Embroidered Details.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
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If you'd like a smaller or larger Walrus, why not experiment with the weight of yarn and hook size? A heavier weight (thicker) yarn on a larger hook will make a larger Walrus, a lighter weight (thinner) yarn on a smaller hook will make a smaller one.
Alternatively, to scale up, work with two strands of a yarn rather than one. To find out more about both these methods... |
Hook
2mm - for the middle sized Walrus made with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply.
2mm - for the middle sized Walrus made with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
27 sts x 30 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 2mm hook, with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
27 sts x 30 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 2mm hook, with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
23 cm (9 in) approx from top to toe for the medium size Walrus.
23 cm (9 in) approx from top to toe for the medium size Walrus.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE .
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE .
The Walrus is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE .
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE .
The Walrus is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Walrus - right side
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Walrus - left side
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Body
Worked from the front of the body to the back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnds 10-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 16-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 21-24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 26-29: Dc around.
Rnd 30: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 31-33: Dc around.
Rnd 34: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 35-36: Dc around.
Rnd 37: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 38: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 39: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Worked from the front of the body to the back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnds 10-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 16-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 21-24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 26-29: Dc around.
Rnd 30: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 31-33: Dc around.
Rnd 34: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 35-36: Dc around.
Rnd 37: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 38: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 39: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Head
Made from the top downwards. Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 11-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 16-19: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Head to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the top downwards. Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 11-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 16-19: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Head to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Muzzle
The Muzzle is made from the bottom up. It starts as two separate pieces (Part A and Part B) which are then joined and the top part is then worked.
Part A
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around.
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off. You'll weave the yarn tail in once the rest of the Muzzle has been made.
Part B
Rnds 1-4: Work as for Part A above but DO NOT fasten off at the end of Rnd 4. Carry on to Rnd 5 below to join both parts together.
Rnd 5: Starting in next unused stitch of Part B, 6 dc, then starting in the next unused stitch of Part A and rotating as you go, 12 dc, then another 6 dc in the remaining unused stitches of Part B. 24 sts
It is usual for there to be a small gap between the two pieces when joined. This can be sewn up using a length of CC1 and a yarn needle once the Muzzle is finished.
Rnd 6: Dc around. 24 sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Start to stuff the Muzzle.
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Finish stuffing the Muzzle.
Rnd 10: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Muzzle to Head once you've made all the parts.
The Muzzle is made from the bottom up. It starts as two separate pieces (Part A and Part B) which are then joined and the top part is then worked.
Part A
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around.
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off. You'll weave the yarn tail in once the rest of the Muzzle has been made.
Part B
Rnds 1-4: Work as for Part A above but DO NOT fasten off at the end of Rnd 4. Carry on to Rnd 5 below to join both parts together.
Rnd 5: Starting in next unused stitch of Part B, 6 dc, then starting in the next unused stitch of Part A and rotating as you go, 12 dc, then another 6 dc in the remaining unused stitches of Part B. 24 sts
It is usual for there to be a small gap between the two pieces when joined. This can be sewn up using a length of CC1 and a yarn needle once the Muzzle is finished.
Rnd 6: Dc around. 24 sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Start to stuff the Muzzle.
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Finish stuffing the Muzzle.
Rnd 10: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Muzzle to Head once you've made all the parts.
Front Flippers - make 2
Made from the bottom upwards. Stuff lightly as you go up to Round 10 only. Chains are not included in the stitch count. The Flippers are made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you're unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 6 dc in other side of ch, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times**; repeat from * to ** once more. 24 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 9 dc, 2 dc2tog, 11 dc. 22 sts
Rnd 7: 8 dc, 2 dc2tog, 10 dc. 20 sts
Rnd 8: 7 dc, 2 dc2tog, 9 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 9: 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 8 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 10: 4 dc, 3 dc2tog, 6 dc. 13 sts
Don't stuff beyond this point.
Rnd 11: 3 dc, 3 dc2tog, 4 dc 10 sts
Rnds 12-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [2 dc in the next st, 4 dc] twice. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Front Flipper to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the bottom upwards. Stuff lightly as you go up to Round 10 only. Chains are not included in the stitch count. The Flippers are made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you're unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 6 dc in other side of ch, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times**; repeat from * to ** once more. 24 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 9 dc, 2 dc2tog, 11 dc. 22 sts
Rnd 7: 8 dc, 2 dc2tog, 10 dc. 20 sts
Rnd 8: 7 dc, 2 dc2tog, 9 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 9: 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 8 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 10: 4 dc, 3 dc2tog, 6 dc. 13 sts
Don't stuff beyond this point.
Rnd 11: 3 dc, 3 dc2tog, 4 dc 10 sts
Rnds 12-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [2 dc in the next st, 4 dc] twice. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Front Flipper to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Back Flippers - make 2
Do not stuff. These are made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you're unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE. Chains are not included in the stitch count.
With MC, chain 5.
Rnd 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 4 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 4 dc in other side of ch, 2 ch. 8 sts
Rnd 2: [4 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 13 sts
Rnd 5: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 6: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 7: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 8: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 9: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 10: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 7 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Back Flipper to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Do not stuff. These are made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you're unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE. Chains are not included in the stitch count.
With MC, chain 5.
Rnd 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 4 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 4 dc in other side of ch, 2 ch. 8 sts
Rnd 2: [4 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 13 sts
Rnd 5: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 6: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 7: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 8: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 9: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 10: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 7 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Back Flipper to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Tusks - make 2
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 7 sts
Rnds 5-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 9-11: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Tusk to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 7 sts
Rnds 5-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 9-11: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Tusk to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Nose
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Fasten off. Flatten in half. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Muzzle once you've made all the parts.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Fasten off. Flatten in half. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Muzzle once you've made all the parts.
Eyes - make 2
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. Slip stitch in first dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. Slip stitch in first dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Walrus - base
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Walrus - back left
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the centre line of the Body, taking them under and up the back of the Body - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
If the previous paragraph has confused you, there's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website - you can find it HERE.
Sew the Head to the Body, centred on the line of pins. Its front edge should sit roughly in line with Rnds 5-6 of the Body.
If you are using a pin line to help with positioning, add pins along the centre line of the Head to help you position the facial features.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the centre line of the Body, taking them under and up the back of the Body - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
If the previous paragraph has confused you, there's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website - you can find it HERE.
Sew the Head to the Body, centred on the line of pins. Its front edge should sit roughly in line with Rnds 5-6 of the Body.
If you are using a pin line to help with positioning, add pins along the centre line of the Head to help you position the facial features.
Walrus - face detail
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Walrus - Face side view
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Sew the Muzzle on to the front of the Head, only attaching it to the Head at its top as you'll be tucking the top of the Tusks up underneath the bottom of it. The top of the Muzzle should sit roughly in line with Rnd 10 of the Head (counting down from the top).
The Tusks are slightly curved, sew them in place, sitting so that they curve inwards towards each other. Their tops should sit tucked up under the bottom of each side of the Muzzle. Stitch them to the Head first and then secure the bottom of the Muzzle over them with a few stitches.
Sew the Nose (which should be flattened in half) in place on the top point of the Muzzle.
Sew the Eyes in place, up from and either side of the Muzzle and nose. The centre of the Eyes should be roughly in line with Rnd 7 of the Head.
The Tusks are slightly curved, sew them in place, sitting so that they curve inwards towards each other. Their tops should sit tucked up under the bottom of each side of the Muzzle. Stitch them to the Head first and then secure the bottom of the Muzzle over them with a few stitches.
Sew the Nose (which should be flattened in half) in place on the top point of the Muzzle.
Sew the Eyes in place, up from and either side of the Muzzle and nose. The centre of the Eyes should be roughly in line with Rnd 7 of the Head.
Walrus - back detail
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Walrus - Back Flipper detail
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Sew the Front Flippers in place, sitting either side of the Tusks. Their top seam should line up with the seam joining the Head to the Body. Make sure they are facing outwards.
Sew the Back Flippers - again facing outwards - onto the end of the Body.
Sew the Back Flippers - again facing outwards - onto the end of the Body.
Walrus - Front Flipper detail
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
With CC2, embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye and the decorative stitch detail down the back of the Walrus' Head and along his Back.
With CC3, embroider 5 claws on each Front Flipper and 4 on each Back Flipper.
Take a line of CC3 down the middle of the Muzzle, from the bottom of the Nose and also use CC3 to embroider the decorative stitches on the Muzzle.
Lastly, embroider a smile on the Walrus' Head, just down from the top of the tusks.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
With CC2, embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye and the decorative stitch detail down the back of the Walrus' Head and along his Back.
With CC3, embroider 5 claws on each Front Flipper and 4 on each Back Flipper.
Take a line of CC3 down the middle of the Muzzle, from the bottom of the Nose and also use CC3 to embroider the decorative stitches on the Muzzle.
Lastly, embroider a smile on the Walrus' Head, just down from the top of the tusks.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
