Free Amigurumi Crochet
Snowman, Penguin & Polar Bear Pattern
Part 1 of the Christmas Wreath CAL - or make as baubles to hang on your Christmas Tree!
Yarn
COL A: White
COL B: Red
COL C: Blue
COL D: Green
COL E: Yellow
COL F: Orange
COL G: Black
Small amounts of each colour required. Each character needs approx 30g-40g of 4 ply cotton.
I used Scheepjes Catona on a 2mm hook. The basic head shape uses approx 10g of this yarn.
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
The Scheepjes Catona colours I used were: COL A - Snow White (106), COL B - Hot Red (115), COL C - Capri Blue (261),
COL D- Apple Green (389), COL E - Yellow Gold (208), COL F - Royal Orange (189) and COL G - Jet Black (110)
This is a great project for using up odds and ends of yarn from your stash - have fun with the colours - I think it'd look great in a Frosty colour palette of White, Lilacs, Blues, Pinks and Purples for instance. Make it your own!
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
COL A: White
COL B: Red
COL C: Blue
COL D: Green
COL E: Yellow
COL F: Orange
COL G: Black
Small amounts of each colour required. Each character needs approx 30g-40g of 4 ply cotton.
I used Scheepjes Catona on a 2mm hook. The basic head shape uses approx 10g of this yarn.
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
The Scheepjes Catona colours I used were: COL A - Snow White (106), COL B - Hot Red (115), COL C - Capri Blue (261),
COL D- Apple Green (389), COL E - Yellow Gold (208), COL F - Royal Orange (189) and COL G - Jet Black (110)
This is a great project for using up odds and ends of yarn from your stash - have fun with the colours - I think it'd look great in a Frosty colour palette of White, Lilacs, Blues, Pinks and Purples for instance. Make it your own!
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Hook
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors. If you are making the Snowy trio as part of my Christmas Wreath Crochet Along, you will also need a 25cm diameter polystyrene craft ring.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors. If you are making the Snowy trio as part of my Christmas Wreath Crochet Along, you will also need a 25cm diameter polystyrene craft ring.
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
11-12 cm (4.5 in) approx plus the dangly bits of the scarves.
11-12 cm (4.5 in) approx plus the dangly bits of the scarves.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified these patterns are worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The characters are made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
The characters share some common basic parts. The patterns for these are shown first. Please refer to the sections for the individual characters for colours etc.
Unless otherwise specified these patterns are worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The characters are made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
The characters share some common basic parts. The patterns for these are shown first. Please refer to the sections for the individual characters for colours etc.
Making Up Guide
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly, you can find it HERE.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the front centre line of the Head, taking them under the base and up the back - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
There's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts, you can find it HERE.
Instructions specific to making up the individual characters are at the end of each of the patterns.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly, you can find it HERE.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the front centre line of the Head, taking them under the base and up the back - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
There's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts, you can find it HERE.
Instructions specific to making up the individual characters are at the end of each of the patterns.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK tr - treble crochet, the equivalent US stitch is US dc - double crochet and it uses UK htr - half treble crochet, the equivalent US stitch is US hdc - half double crochet.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK tr - treble crochet, the equivalent US stitch is US dc - double crochet and it uses UK htr - half treble crochet, the equivalent US stitch is US hdc - half double crochet.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Basic Parts
Basic Head
Made from bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: *[2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc; rep from * once more. 22 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc] twice. 26 sts
Rnd 6: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 9 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc. 30sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice, 11 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 9 dc. 34 sts
Rnd 8: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 13 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc. 38 sts
Rnds 9-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 13 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc. 34 sts
Rnd 17: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 11 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 18: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc 2tog, 7 dc. 26 sts
Rnd 19: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 22 sts
Rnd 20: 2 dc, 2 dc2tog, 7 dc, 2 dc2tog, 5 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 21: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 22: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Using a yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through FLO of rem 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Basic Head
Made from bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: *[2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc; rep from * once more. 22 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc] twice. 26 sts
Rnd 6: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 9 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc. 30sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice, 11 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 9 dc. 34 sts
Rnd 8: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 13 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc. 38 sts
Rnds 9-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 13 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc. 34 sts
Rnd 17: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 11 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 18: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc 2tog, 7 dc. 26 sts
Rnd 19: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 22 sts
Rnd 20: 2 dc, 2 dc2tog, 7 dc, 2 dc2tog, 5 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 21: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 22: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Using a yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through FLO of rem 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Basic Neck
Worked from bottom up. The chains are not included in the stitch count. This part has an Oval Start.
There's a photo tutorial showing the principle of the Oval Start, you can find it HERE.
With chosen colour, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, working in the other side of the chain, 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times: rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: *4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st; rep from * once more. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc in BLO around.
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off. Stuff the neck. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Neck to the bottom of the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from bottom up. The chains are not included in the stitch count. This part has an Oval Start.
There's a photo tutorial showing the principle of the Oval Start, you can find it HERE.
With chosen colour, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, working in the other side of the chain, 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times: rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: *4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st; rep from * once more. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc in BLO around.
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off. Stuff the neck. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Neck to the bottom of the Head once you've made all the parts.
Basic Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With COL G and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With COL G and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Pattern One: Snowman
Snowman - Basic Parts to Make
Make Basic Head and Neck in COL A.
Make Basic Eyes in COL G.
Make Basic Head and Neck in COL A.
Make Basic Eyes in COL G.
Snowman's Hat
Made from the top down. Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With COL C, and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc in BLO around.
Rnd 7: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 11-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: Working in FLO for whole round, [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
When you attach the Hat to the Snowman's Head, sew through the unused back loops of Rnd 13, from underneath the Hat, to join the two together, rather than stitching through the outer edge of the Hat brim.
Rnd 15: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 18: Sl st in BLO around.
Fasten off. Weave in end.
Made from the top down. Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With COL C, and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc in BLO around.
Rnd 7: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 11-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: Working in FLO for whole round, [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
When you attach the Hat to the Snowman's Head, sew through the unused back loops of Rnd 13, from underneath the Hat, to join the two together, rather than stitching through the outer edge of the Hat brim.
Rnd 15: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 18: Sl st in BLO around.
Fasten off. Weave in end.
Snowman's Hat Band
Made with turned rows. The turning chain is not included in the stitch count.
With COL E, chain 23. Turn.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 22 dc. Turn. 22 sts
Rows 2-3: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Hat Band to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Made with turned rows. The turning chain is not included in the stitch count.
With COL E, chain 23. Turn.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 22 dc. Turn. 22 sts
Rows 2-3: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Hat Band to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Leaves- make 2
There's a photo tutorial - if you need it - for how to make the leaf HERE.
The chains are not included in the stitch count.
With COL D, chain 6.
Rnd 1: *Starting in second chain from hook, 1 sl st, 1 dc, [2 htr] in next st, 1 dc, 1 sl st**, 1 ch; rotating as you go, rep from * to ** once more down the other side of the chain. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Leaf to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
There's a photo tutorial - if you need it - for how to make the leaf HERE.
The chains are not included in the stitch count.
With COL D, chain 6.
Rnd 1: *Starting in second chain from hook, 1 sl st, 1 dc, [2 htr] in next st, 1 dc, 1 sl st**, 1 ch; rotating as you go, rep from * to ** once more down the other side of the chain. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Leaf to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Berries- make 2
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With COL B and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Fasten off. With a yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the rem 4 sts and pull to close hole. Leave long yarn tail to sew the Berries to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With COL B and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Fasten off. With a yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the rem 4 sts and pull to close hole. Leave long yarn tail to sew the Berries to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Snowman's Nose
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL F and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL F and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Snowman's Scarf
Made in turned rows. Chains not included in the stitch count.
With COL D, chain 61.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 60 dc. Turn. 60 sts
Rows 2-3: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Made in turned rows. Chains not included in the stitch count.
With COL D, chain 61.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 60 dc. Turn. 60 sts
Rows 2-3: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Scarf Pompoms - make 6
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With COL E and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Fasten off. Using a yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the FLO of rem 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Pompoms to the Scarf once you've made all the parts.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With COL E and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Fasten off. Using a yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the FLO of rem 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Pompoms to the Scarf once you've made all the parts.
Snowman- Making Up
- Sew the stuffed Neck in place on the bottom of the Head. Photo Tutorial on this HERE.
- Sew the stuffed Nose to front of Face.
- Sew Eyes either side of Nose.
- Sew three Pompoms to each end of the Scarf.
- Tie the Scarf round the Neck and sew in place,
- Sew the Hat Band round the Hat and attach the Leaves and Berries to it.
- Sew the stuffed Hat to the top of the Head set to one side at an angle. When you attach the Hat to the Snowman's Head, sew through the unused back loops of Rnd 13, from underneath the Hat, to join the two together, rather than stitching through the outer edge of the Hat brim.
Snowman- Embroidered Detail
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
Use a length of yarn in your choice of colour to make a hanging loop if you want to use the Snowman as a tree decoration.
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
- With COL A, the single stitch highlight on each Eye.
- With COL G, the Mouth on the Head.
Use a length of yarn in your choice of colour to make a hanging loop if you want to use the Snowman as a tree decoration.
Pattern Two: Penguin
Penguin - Basic Parts to Make
Make Basic Head and Neck in COL C.
Make Basic Eyes in COL G.
Make Basic Head and Neck in COL C.
Make Basic Eyes in COL G.
Penguin's Face
Rnd 1: With COL A and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Change to COL C.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Face to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With COL A and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Change to COL C.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Face to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Penguin's Forehead (the blue pointy bit at the top of the face!)
This part starts with a magic ring but is then worked in turned rows. Chains not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With COL C and working into a magic ring, 1 dc. Turn. 1 st
Rnd 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 2 sts
Rnd 3: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] twice. Turn. 4 sts
Rnd 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 6 sts
Rnd 5: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Do not turn. 8 sts.
Do not fasten off. At the end of Rnd 5 carry on down one side and up the other, working 1 dc in the end of each row to neaten, ending with a sl st in the first dc of Rnd 5. Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail to sew the Forehead to the Face once you've made all the parts.
This part starts with a magic ring but is then worked in turned rows. Chains not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With COL C and working into a magic ring, 1 dc. Turn. 1 st
Rnd 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 2 sts
Rnd 3: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] twice. Turn. 4 sts
Rnd 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 6 sts
Rnd 5: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Do not turn. 8 sts.
Do not fasten off. At the end of Rnd 5 carry on down one side and up the other, working 1 dc in the end of each row to neaten, ending with a sl st in the first dc of Rnd 5. Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail to sew the Forehead to the Face once you've made all the parts.
Penguin's Beak
Worked from tip of beak towards the face.Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL E and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Beak to the Face once you've made all the parts.
Worked from tip of beak towards the face.Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL E and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Beak to the Face once you've made all the parts.
Penguin's Hat
Worked from the top of the Hat down.
Rnd 1: With COL D and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st round. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Change to COL B.
Rnd 12: Dc in FLO around.
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave in end. Turn the red Hat Brim out and up over the bottom of the Hat.
Worked from the top of the Hat down.
Rnd 1: With COL D and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st round. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Change to COL B.
Rnd 12: Dc in FLO around.
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave in end. Turn the red Hat Brim out and up over the bottom of the Hat.
Penguin's Hat Bobble
Worked from top down. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL B and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Bobble to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Worked from top down. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL B and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Bobble to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Penguin's Hat - Star
Chains not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With COL C and working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 2: [3 ch, starting in second ch from hook, 1 sl st, 1 dc, 1 sl st in next st] 5 times, finish with sl st in last dc of Rnd 1. 16 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Star to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
You can find a Photo Tutorial about how to make this Star HERE.
Chains not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With COL C and working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 2: [3 ch, starting in second ch from hook, 1 sl st, 1 dc, 1 sl st in next st] 5 times, finish with sl st in last dc of Rnd 1. 16 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Star to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
You can find a Photo Tutorial about how to make this Star HERE.
Penguin's Scarf
Made in turned rows. Chains not included in the stitch count.
With COL B, chain 61.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 60 dc. Turn. 60 sts
Change to COL D.
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to COL B.
Row 3: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Made in turned rows. Chains not included in the stitch count.
With COL B, chain 61.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 60 dc. Turn. 60 sts
Change to COL D.
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to COL B.
Row 3: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Penguin's Scarf Pompoms - make 2
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL B and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Pompoms to the ends of the Scarf once you've made all the parts.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL B and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Pompoms to the ends of the Scarf once you've made all the parts.
Penguin - Making Up
- Sew the stuffed Neck in place on the bottom of the Head. Photo Tutorial on this HERE.
- Sew the Face onto the Head.
- Sew the Forehead in place at the top of the Face.
- Sew the stuffed Beak onto the Face.
- Sew the Eyes in place either side of the Beak.
- Sew the Pompom over the top point of the Hat.
- Sew the Star to the front of the Hat.
- Sew the stuffed Hat onto the Penguin's head at a slight angle to one side.
- Sew the Pompoms on the ends of the Scarf, tie it round the Neck and stitch in place.
Penguin - Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
With COL A, the single stitch highlight on each Eye.
Use a length of yarn in your choice of colour to make a hanging loop if you want to use the Penguin as a tree decoration.
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
With COL A, the single stitch highlight on each Eye.
Use a length of yarn in your choice of colour to make a hanging loop if you want to use the Penguin as a tree decoration.
Pattern Three : Polar Bear
Polar Bear - Basic Parts to Make
Make Basic Head and Neck in COL A.
Make Basic Eyes in COL G.
Make Basic Head and Neck in COL A.
Make Basic Eyes in COL G.
Polar Bear's Muzzle
Made from tip of Muzzle working back. Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With COL A and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Muzzle to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Made from tip of Muzzle working back. Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With COL A and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Muzzle to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Polar Bear's Ears - make 2
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With COL A and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With COL A and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Polar Bear's Nose
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With COL G and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Muzzle once you've made all the parts.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With COL G and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Muzzle once you've made all the parts.
Polar Bear's Hat
Made from the top down. Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With COL D and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 21 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Hat to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Made from the top down. Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With COL D and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 21 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Hat to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Polar Bear's Hat - Star - make 2
Do not stuff. Chains not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With COL E and working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 2: [3 ch, starting in second ch from hook, 1 sl st, 1 dc, 1 sl st in next st] 5 times, finish with sl st in last dc of Rnd 1. 16 sts
Fasten off. Sandwich the two stars together back to back with their points aligned. Use one of the yarn tails to join the two stars together sewing through both layers right round the edge. Leave one yarn tail long to sew the Star to the top of the Hat once you've made all the parts.
You can find a Photo Tutorial about how to make this Star HERE.
Do not stuff. Chains not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With COL E and working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 2: [3 ch, starting in second ch from hook, 1 sl st, 1 dc, 1 sl st in next st] 5 times, finish with sl st in last dc of Rnd 1. 16 sts
Fasten off. Sandwich the two stars together back to back with their points aligned. Use one of the yarn tails to join the two stars together sewing through both layers right round the edge. Leave one yarn tail long to sew the Star to the top of the Hat once you've made all the parts.
You can find a Photo Tutorial about how to make this Star HERE.
Polar Bear's Scarf
Made in turned rows. Chains not included in the stitch count.
With COL C, chain 61.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 60 dc. Turn. 60 sts
Rows 2-3: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Made in turned rows. Chains not included in the stitch count.
With COL C, chain 61.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 60 dc. Turn. 60 sts
Rows 2-3: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Polar Bear's Scarf - Pompoms - make 2
With COL D make 2 Pompoms using the pattern for the Penguin's Pompoms above.
With COL D make 2 Pompoms using the pattern for the Penguin's Pompoms above.
Polar Bear- making up
- Sew the stuffed Neck to the base of the Head. Photo Tutorial on this HERE.
- Sew the stuffed Muzzle to the front of the Head.
- Flatten the Nose in half and sew it to the top of the Muzzle.
- Sew the Eyes in place above the Muzzle, sitting approx 4 stitches apart.
- Sew the stuffed Hat on top of the Head.
- Sew the Star on the top of the Hat.
- Sew the Ears in place either side of the Head, sitting just below the bottom edge of the Hat.
- DON"T sew the Scarf on yet - add the embroidered detailing to it first - see next section.
Polar Bear- Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
Use a length of yarn in your choice of colour to make a hanging loop if you want to use the Polar Bear as a tree decoration.
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
- With COL A, the single stitch highlight on each eye.
- With COL G, the Mouth.
- With COL D the two lines of running stitch down the Scarf - once you've done this, sew the Pompoms to the ends, tie the scarf round the Neck and stitch into place.
- With COL B the starry twinkle decoration on the Hat. Photo Tutorial on this HERE.
Use a length of yarn in your choice of colour to make a hanging loop if you want to use the Polar Bear as a tree decoration.
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS