Free Amigurumi Crochet Goose Pattern
Crochet your own Goose!
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 40g approx of Bridal White (105) for Head, Body, Tail and Wings.
CC1: 15g approx of Tangerine (281) for Beak, Legs and Feet.
CC2: Small Amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes.
CC3: Small amount of Sky Blue (510) for Embroidered detail.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Dodo and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 40g approx of Bridal White (105) for Head, Body, Tail and Wings.
CC1: 15g approx of Tangerine (281) for Beak, Legs and Feet.
CC2: Small Amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes.
CC3: Small amount of Sky Blue (510) for Embroidered detail.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Dodo and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE
Hook
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
20 cm (8 in) approx from top to toe.
20 cm (8 in) approx from top to toe.
Goose - right side
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Goose - left side
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Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Goose is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Goose is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK tr (treble crochet) and UK htr (half treble crochet) - the equivalent stitches are US dc (double crochet) and US hdc (half double crochet).
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Sign up to the Mailing List at the top of the page to access free printable PDF versions of this pattern in UK or US terms.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK tr (treble crochet) and UK htr (half treble crochet) - the equivalent stitches are US dc (double crochet) and US hdc (half double crochet).
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Sign up to the Mailing List at the top of the page to access free printable PDF versions of this pattern in UK or US terms.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Goose - back
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Goose - back left
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Body
Worked from the bottom of the Body upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [2 dc in next st, 12 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: [2 dc in next st, 14 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 54 sts
Rnd 10: [2 dc in next st, 16 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 60 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 15 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 54 sts
Rnds 13-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 13 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 48 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 11 dc] 3 times. 42 sts
Rnds 21-23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnds 25-27: Dc around.
Rnd 28: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnds 29-31: Dc around.
Rnd 32: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 33-34: Dc around.
Rnd 35: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom of the Body upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [2 dc in next st, 12 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: [2 dc in next st, 14 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 54 sts
Rnd 10: [2 dc in next st, 16 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 60 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 15 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 54 sts
Rnds 13-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 13 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 48 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 11 dc] 3 times. 42 sts
Rnds 21-23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnds 25-27: Dc around.
Rnd 28: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnds 29-31: Dc around.
Rnd 32: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 33-34: Dc around.
Rnd 35: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Beak & Head
Made as one piece starting from the tip of the Beak and working back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc] twice. 16 sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc in next st, 7 dc] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 11: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 12: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 21 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. 33 sts
Rnd 13: 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 26 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 14: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 18 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st. 42 sts
Rnds 15-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 21-22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 24-25: Dc around.
Rnd 26: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 27: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 28: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 29: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Made as one piece starting from the tip of the Beak and working back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc] twice. 16 sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc in next st, 7 dc] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 11: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 12: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 21 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. 33 sts
Rnd 13: 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 26 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 14: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 18 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st. 42 sts
Rnds 15-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 21-22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 24-25: Dc around.
Rnd 26: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 27: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 28: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 29: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Wings - make 2
Made from the bottom tip of the Wing up towards the top. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 10-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 18-20: dc around.
Rnd 21: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Wing to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the bottom tip of the Wing up towards the top. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 10-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 18-20: dc around.
Rnd 21: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Wing to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Tail Section
Made from the point of the Tail back towards the Body. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tail Piece to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the point of the Tail back towards the Body. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tail Piece to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Legs - make 2
Made from the bottom of the Leg upwards. Feet are made separately. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Working in the back loop only for the whole round, dc around. 6 sts
Rnds 3-9: Working in both loops, dc around. 6 sts
Rnd 10: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the bottom of the Leg upwards. Feet are made separately. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Working in the back loop only for the whole round, dc around. 6 sts
Rnds 3-9: Working in both loops, dc around. 6 sts
Rnd 10: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Feet - make 2
Made from the back of the foot to the front. Do not stuff. The chains in Rnd 10 are not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 10: [1 sl st, 2 ch, 1 tr} in next st, 1 ch, [1 tr, 1 htr] in next st, 1 dc, 2 sl st, 1 dc, *[1 htr, 1 tr] in next st, 1 ch, [1 tr, 1 htr] in next st, 1 dc, 2 sl st, 1 dc**; rep from * to ** two more times, 1 sl st in first st of rnd to join. 33 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail. Flatten the Foot, lining up the wavy shapes, and use the yarn tail to sew the open end closed. Weave in yarn tail.
Made from the back of the foot to the front. Do not stuff. The chains in Rnd 10 are not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 10: [1 sl st, 2 ch, 1 tr} in next st, 1 ch, [1 tr, 1 htr] in next st, 1 dc, 2 sl st, 1 dc, *[1 htr, 1 tr] in next st, 1 ch, [1 tr, 1 htr] in next st, 1 dc, 2 sl st, 1 dc**; rep from * to ** two more times, 1 sl st in first st of rnd to join. 33 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail. Flatten the Foot, lining up the wavy shapes, and use the yarn tail to sew the open end closed. Weave in yarn tail.
Goose - underside of foot
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in first dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in first dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly on the website - you can find it HERE.
Looking at the Body, decide which of the flat sides will be the Goose's Belly/Chest.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the front centre line of the Body, taking them under the base and up the back - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
If the previous paragraph has confused you, there's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts HERE.
Looking at the Goose's Head, the point between Rnds 10 and 11, where you changed colour, indicates the underside of the Beak - if in doubt, have a look at the image below. If you're using a pin line on the Body, line up the centre line of the Head & Beak with the mid line of the Belly/Chest and sew the Body to the underside of the Head.
Sew the stuffed Tail Piece to the back of the Body, again making sure it's lined up with the centre line running down the back of the Body. The bottom of the Tail Piece should sit roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Body.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly on the website - you can find it HERE.
Looking at the Body, decide which of the flat sides will be the Goose's Belly/Chest.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the front centre line of the Body, taking them under the base and up the back - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
If the previous paragraph has confused you, there's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts HERE.
Looking at the Goose's Head, the point between Rnds 10 and 11, where you changed colour, indicates the underside of the Beak - if in doubt, have a look at the image below. If you're using a pin line on the Body, line up the centre line of the Head & Beak with the mid line of the Belly/Chest and sew the Body to the underside of the Head.
Sew the stuffed Tail Piece to the back of the Body, again making sure it's lined up with the centre line running down the back of the Body. The bottom of the Tail Piece should sit roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Body.
Goose - head detail
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Goose - base detail
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Using a length of CC1, sew the bottom of a Leg to the top of each of the Feet. Making sure the Feet are facing forwards in relation to the Body, sew the top of the Legs to the bottom of the Body - they should sit roughly in line with Rnd 5 of the Body, set towards the front so that the Goose can sit on his bottom.
Sew the Eyes in place either side of the Head. Their front edge should sit about 5 rounds back from the last round of the Beak.
The Wings will only be attached to the Body along their open edge. The top corner of that edge should sit about 6 rounds down from where the Head and Body are joined. The Wings need to sit at an angle and the bottom corner of the open edge should sit about 4 rounds below the top one.
The bottom corners of the open edges of the Wings should be spaced about 12 stitches apart across the chest. Make sure the Wings are symmetrically positioned in relation to the centre line running down the Goose's chest. Once you're happy with the position, sew the Wings onto the Body along their open edge, sewing right round that edge so it is attached to the Body all the way round.
Sew the Eyes in place either side of the Head. Their front edge should sit about 5 rounds back from the last round of the Beak.
The Wings will only be attached to the Body along their open edge. The top corner of that edge should sit about 6 rounds down from where the Head and Body are joined. The Wings need to sit at an angle and the bottom corner of the open edge should sit about 4 rounds below the top one.
The bottom corners of the open edges of the Wings should be spaced about 12 stitches apart across the chest. Make sure the Wings are symmetrically positioned in relation to the centre line running down the Goose's chest. Once you're happy with the position, sew the Wings onto the Body along their open edge, sewing right round that edge so it is attached to the Body all the way round.
Goose - belly detail
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
With MC, embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye.
With CC3 embroider the V stitch detail on the Goose's chest and the Star detail on the sides of the Tail Piece.
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
With MC, embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye.
With CC3 embroider the V stitch detail on the Goose's chest and the Star detail on the sides of the Tail Piece.
Goose - tail right side
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Goose - tail lefts side
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Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
