Free Amigurumi Crochet
Elf, Santa & Reindeer Pattern
Part 2 of the Christmas Wreath CAL - or make as baubles to hang on your Christmas Tree!
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Can't wait for the PDFs? Here's the patterns so you can get started!
Yarn
COL A: White
COL B: Red
COL C: Beige
COL D: Green
COL E: Brown
COL F: Black
Small amounts of each colour required. Each character needs approx 30g-40g of 4 ply cotton. I used Scheepjes Catona on a 2mm hook. The basic head shape uses approx 10g of this yarn.
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
This is a great project for using up odds and ends of yarn from your stash.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
COL A: White
COL B: Red
COL C: Beige
COL D: Green
COL E: Brown
COL F: Black
Small amounts of each colour required. Each character needs approx 30g-40g of 4 ply cotton. I used Scheepjes Catona on a 2mm hook. The basic head shape uses approx 10g of this yarn.
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
This is a great project for using up odds and ends of yarn from your stash.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Hook
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors. If you are making the Santa Trio as part of my Christmas Wreath Crochet Along, you will also need a 25cm diameter polystyrene craft ring.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors. If you are making the Santa Trio as part of my Christmas Wreath Crochet Along, you will also need a 25cm diameter polystyrene craft ring.
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
11-12 cm (4.5 in) approx plus the dangly bit of the Reindeer's Scarf.
11-12 cm (4.5 in) approx plus the dangly bit of the Reindeer's Scarf.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified these patterns are worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The characters are made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
The characters share some common basic parts. The patterns for these are shown first. Please refer to the sections for the individual characters for colours etc.
Unless otherwise specified these patterns are worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The characters are made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
The characters share some common basic parts. The patterns for these are shown first. Please refer to the sections for the individual characters for colours etc.
Making Up Guide
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly, you can find it HERE.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the front centre line of the Head, taking them under the base and up the back - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
There's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts, you can find it HERE.
Instructions specific to making up the individual characters are at the end of each of the patterns.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly, you can find it HERE.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the front centre line of the Head, taking them under the base and up the back - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
There's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts, you can find it HERE.
Instructions specific to making up the individual characters are at the end of each of the patterns.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK tr - treble crochet, the equivalent US stitch is US dc - double crochet and it uses UK htr - half treble crochet, the equivalent US stitch is US hdc - half double crochet.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Sign up to the Mailing List at the top of the page to access free printable PDF versions of this pattern in UK or US terms.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK tr - treble crochet, the equivalent US stitch is US dc - double crochet and it uses UK htr - half treble crochet, the equivalent US stitch is US hdc - half double crochet.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Sign up to the Mailing List at the top of the page to access free printable PDF versions of this pattern in UK or US terms.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Basic Parts
Basic Head
Made from bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: *[2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc; rep from * once more. 22 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc] twice. 26 sts
Rnd 6: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 9 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc. 30sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice, 11 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 9 dc. 34 sts
Rnd 8: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 13 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc. 38 sts
Rnds 9-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 13 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc. 34 sts
Rnd 17: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 11 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 18: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc 2tog, 7 dc. 26 sts
Rnd 19: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 22 sts
Rnd 20: 2 dc, 2 dc2tog, 7 dc, 2 dc2tog, 5 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 21: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 22: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Using a yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through FLO of rem 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Basic Head
Made from bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: *[2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc; rep from * once more. 22 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc] twice. 26 sts
Rnd 6: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 9 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc. 30sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice, 11 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 9 dc. 34 sts
Rnd 8: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 13 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc. 38 sts
Rnds 9-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 13 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc. 34 sts
Rnd 17: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 11 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 18: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc 2tog, 7 dc. 26 sts
Rnd 19: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 22 sts
Rnd 20: 2 dc, 2 dc2tog, 7 dc, 2 dc2tog, 5 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 21: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 22: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Using a yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through FLO of rem 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Basic Neck
Worked from bottom up. The chains are not included in the stitch count. This part has an Oval Start.
There's a photo tutorial showing the principle of the Oval Start, you can find it HERE.
With chosen colour, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, working in the other side of the chain, 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times: rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: *4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st; rep from * once more. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc in BLO around.
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off. Stuff the neck. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Neck to the bottom of the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from bottom up. The chains are not included in the stitch count. This part has an Oval Start.
There's a photo tutorial showing the principle of the Oval Start, you can find it HERE.
With chosen colour, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, working in the other side of the chain, 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times: rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: *4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st; rep from * once more. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc in BLO around.
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off. Stuff the neck. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Neck to the bottom of the Head once you've made all the parts.
Basic Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With COL G and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With COL G and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Pattern One: Elf
Elf - front view
Elf - Basic Parts to Make
Make Basic Head in COL C.
Make Basic Neck in COL B.
Make Basic Eyes in COL F.
Make Basic Head in COL C.
Make Basic Neck in COL B.
Make Basic Eyes in COL F.
Elf's Hat
The Hat is made in Joined Rounds, so that the colour changes between the stripes are smooth. Join each rnd with sl st in BLO of beg dc then work first st of next rnd into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined rnd on, make sure you miss the sl st from prev rnd - do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The slip stitches do not count in the stitch count for each round. Bobble made separately.
Rnd 1: With COL A, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. Join. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around. Join
Change to COL D.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. Join. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL D.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 24 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 30 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL D.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 36 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnd 13: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 42 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL D.
Rnds 15-16: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL B.
Rnd 17: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 18: Dc in FLO around.
Rnd 19: [1 dc, miss next st, 3 tr in next st, 1 ch, 3 tr in next st, miss next st, 1 dc] 7 times. 56 sts (+ chains)
Fasten off. Weave in end. Fold the Hat brim out and up.
The Hat is made in Joined Rounds, so that the colour changes between the stripes are smooth. Join each rnd with sl st in BLO of beg dc then work first st of next rnd into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined rnd on, make sure you miss the sl st from prev rnd - do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The slip stitches do not count in the stitch count for each round. Bobble made separately.
Rnd 1: With COL A, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. Join. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around. Join
Change to COL D.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. Join. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL D.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 24 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 30 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL D.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 36 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnd 13: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 42 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL D.
Rnds 15-16: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL B.
Rnd 17: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 18: Dc in FLO around.
Rnd 19: [1 dc, miss next st, 3 tr in next st, 1 ch, 3 tr in next st, miss next st, 1 dc] 7 times. 56 sts (+ chains)
Fasten off. Weave in end. Fold the Hat brim out and up.
Elf's Hat - Bobble
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL B, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Bobble to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL B, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Bobble to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Elf's Ears - make 2
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With COL C, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With COL C, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Elf's Pointed Collar
If you need it, there's a Photo Tutorial on making the Elf's Collar HERE.
With COL D, chain 29.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 28 dc. Turn.
Row 2: 1 ch, *1 sl st, 8ch, starting in second ch from hook, 2 sl st, 2 dc, 2 htr, 1 tr, miss next 2 sts; rep from * 8 more times, finish with a sl st in the last dc of Row 1.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Collar to the Neck once you've made all the parts.
If you need it, there's a Photo Tutorial on making the Elf's Collar HERE.
With COL D, chain 29.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 28 dc. Turn.
Row 2: 1 ch, *1 sl st, 8ch, starting in second ch from hook, 2 sl st, 2 dc, 2 htr, 1 tr, miss next 2 sts; rep from * 8 more times, finish with a sl st in the last dc of Row 1.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Collar to the Neck once you've made all the parts.
Elf - right side
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Elf - back view
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Elf - left side
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Elf- Making Up
- Sew the stuffed Neck in place on the bottom of the Head - do not let it splay out too much, if it does, the collar won't fit.
- Stuff the Hat and sew it to the top of the Head.
- Sew the Bobble on top of the Hat.
- Sew the Ears in place on each side of the Head, sitting about two rounds down from the bottom edge of the Hat.
- Sew the Eyes in place on the face approximately 5 sts apart.
- Sew the Collar round the Neck.
Elf- Embroidered Detail
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
Use a length of yarn in your choice of colour to make a hanging loop if you want to use the Elf as a tree decoration.
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
- With COL A, the single stitch highlight on each Eye.
- With COL E, the Elf's hair around the bottom edge of the Hat.
- With COL C, the Nose - oversewing in the same place several times so that the Nose is raised.
- With COL F, the Mouth.
Use a length of yarn in your choice of colour to make a hanging loop if you want to use the Elf as a tree decoration.
Pattern Two - Santa
Santa - front
Santa - Basic Parts to Make
Make Basic Head in COL C.
Make basic Neck in COL B.
Make Basic Eyes in COL F.
Make Basic Head in COL C.
Make basic Neck in COL B.
Make Basic Eyes in COL F.
Santa's Hat
Made from the top down. Bobble made separately.
Rnd 1: With COL B, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 5-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Change to COL A.
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: Dc in FLO around.
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave in end. Fold the Brim out and up.
Made from the top down. Bobble made separately.
Rnd 1: With COL B, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 5-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Change to COL A.
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: Dc in FLO around.
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave in end. Fold the Brim out and up.
Santa's Hat - Bobble
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL A, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Bobble to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL A, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Bobble to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Santa's Nose
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL C, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 1 dc, 4 dc in next st, 2 dc, 4 dc in next st, 1 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL C, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 1 dc, 4 dc in next st, 2 dc, 4 dc in next st, 1 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Santa's Moustache Parts- make 2
Don't stuff.
Rnd 1: With COL A and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2-4 Dc around.
Rnd 5: 1 dc2tog,4 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 6: 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 4 sts
Fasten off. Using a yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the rem 4 sts and pull to close the hole. Weave in end.
Don't stuff.
Rnd 1: With COL A and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2-4 Dc around.
Rnd 5: 1 dc2tog,4 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 6: 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 4 sts
Fasten off. Using a yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the rem 4 sts and pull to close the hole. Weave in end.
Santa's Ears - make 2
Work as for the Elf's Ears above.
Work as for the Elf's Ears above.
Santa's Beard
Made as a flat piece and then folded in half.
Rnd 1: With COL A, working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 10 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times. 15 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times. 20 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times. 25 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times. 30 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times. 35 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times. 40 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [miss one st, 6 tr in next st, miss next st, 1 sl st] 10 times. 70 sts
Fasten off. Fold the piece in half, lining up the scalloped edge. Use a long yarn tail to sew the edge closed. Weave in end.
Made as a flat piece and then folded in half.
Rnd 1: With COL A, working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 10 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times. 15 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times. 20 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times. 25 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times. 30 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times. 35 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times. 40 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [miss one st, 6 tr in next st, miss next st, 1 sl st] 10 times. 70 sts
Fasten off. Fold the piece in half, lining up the scalloped edge. Use a long yarn tail to sew the edge closed. Weave in end.
Santa's Collar
Made flat in turned rows. Turning chain not included in the stitch count.
With COL A, chain 33.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 32 dc. Turn. 32 sts
Rows 2-4: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Fasten off. Fold the piece in half down the length and use the yarn tail to sew the long edges together, creating a tube. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Collar to the Neck once you've made all the parts.
Made flat in turned rows. Turning chain not included in the stitch count.
With COL A, chain 33.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 32 dc. Turn. 32 sts
Rows 2-4: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Fasten off. Fold the piece in half down the length and use the yarn tail to sew the long edges together, creating a tube. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Collar to the Neck once you've made all the parts.
Santa's Hair
Made as two separate layers. If you need it, there's a Photo Tutorial on how to make the Bottom Layer HERE.
Bottom Layer
With COL A, chain 24.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 23 dc. Turn. 23 sts
To work the curly strands of hair:
Row 2: *22ch, starting in second ch from hook, [2 dc in next st] 10 times, 11 dc, miss next st of Row 1, 1 sl st; rep from * 10 more times, finishing with a sl st in last dc of Row 1.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Hair to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Top Layer
With COL A, chain 24.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 23 dc. Turn. 23 sts
To work the curly strands of hair:
Row 2: *13ch, [2dc in next st] 6 times, 6 dc, miss next st of Row 1, 1 sl st: rep from * 10 more times, finishing with a sl st in last dc of Row 1.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Hair to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Made as two separate layers. If you need it, there's a Photo Tutorial on how to make the Bottom Layer HERE.
Bottom Layer
With COL A, chain 24.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 23 dc. Turn. 23 sts
To work the curly strands of hair:
Row 2: *22ch, starting in second ch from hook, [2 dc in next st] 10 times, 11 dc, miss next st of Row 1, 1 sl st; rep from * 10 more times, finishing with a sl st in last dc of Row 1.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Hair to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Top Layer
With COL A, chain 24.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 23 dc. Turn. 23 sts
To work the curly strands of hair:
Row 2: *13ch, [2dc in next st] 6 times, 6 dc, miss next st of Row 1, 1 sl st: rep from * 10 more times, finishing with a sl st in last dc of Row 1.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Hair to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Santa - right
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Santa - back view
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Santa - left side
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Santa - Making Up
- Sew the stuffed Neck in place on the bottom of the Head.
- Sew the Collar round the top of the Neck.
- Sew the Bobble on top of the Hat and sew the stuffed Hat on top of the Head.
- Sew the Ears in place on each side of the Head, sitting about 2 rows down from the bottom edge of the Hat.
- Sew the Beard across the front of the Face with its corners sitting at the bottom of the Ears.
- Sew the Nose in place just above the centre of the top of the Beard.
- Sew the two Moustache pieces in place just below the Nose, on top of the Beard. The wider end of each Moustache piece goes nearest to the Nose.
- Sew the Bottom Layer of Hair in place just under the bottom edge of the Hat around the back of the Head. Stitch down the sides of the top half of each strand of Hair to cover the back of the Head.
- Sew the Top Llayer of Hair in place over the top of the Bottom Layer - you don't need to sew down the sides of these strands.
Santa - Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
- With COL A, the single stitch highlight on each Eye.
- With COL F, the Mouth on the Beard.
Pattern Three: Reindeer
Reindeer- front
Reindeer - Basic Parts to Make
Make Basic Head and Neck in COL E.
Make Basic Eyes in COL F.
Make Basic Head and Neck in COL E.
Make Basic Eyes in COL F.
Reindeer's Muzzle
Made from front to back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL E, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5-7: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Muzzle to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Made from front to back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL E, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5-7: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Muzzle to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Reindeer's Nose
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL B, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Muzzle once you've made all the parts.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL B, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Muzzle once you've made all the parts.
Reindeer's Ears - make 2
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With COL E and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With COL E and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Reindeer's Antlers - make 2
Each is made as two separate parts - Part A and Part B - from the top down and then joined together to make an antler. Do not stuff. if you need it, there's a Photo Tutorial on how to join the parts of the Antler HERE.
Part A
Rnd 1: With COL C, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-4: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Part B
Work as Part A but do not fasten off at the end of Rnd 4. Continue on to Rnd 5 below to join the two parts together.
Rnd 5: 3 dc in Part B, then, starting in next unused stitch after last stitch of Rnd 4 on Part A, 6 dc, then, starting in next unused stitch on Part B, 3 dc. 12 sts.
Don't worry if there's a hole where the two parts join - this is normal and can be sewn closed using a length of COL C and a yarn needle once the antler is finished.
Rnd 6: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnds 7-10: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Antler to the top of the Head once you've made all the parts.
Each is made as two separate parts - Part A and Part B - from the top down and then joined together to make an antler. Do not stuff. if you need it, there's a Photo Tutorial on how to join the parts of the Antler HERE.
Part A
Rnd 1: With COL C, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-4: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Part B
Work as Part A but do not fasten off at the end of Rnd 4. Continue on to Rnd 5 below to join the two parts together.
Rnd 5: 3 dc in Part B, then, starting in next unused stitch after last stitch of Rnd 4 on Part A, 6 dc, then, starting in next unused stitch on Part B, 3 dc. 12 sts.
Don't worry if there's a hole where the two parts join - this is normal and can be sewn closed using a length of COL C and a yarn needle once the antler is finished.
Rnd 6: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnds 7-10: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Antler to the top of the Head once you've made all the parts.
Reindeer's Hat
Worked from top down. Bobble made separately
Rnd 1: With COL B, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Change to COL D.
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnds 9-10: DC in FLO around.
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave in end. Fold Hat brim out and up.
Worked from top down. Bobble made separately
Rnd 1: With COL B, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Change to COL D.
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnds 9-10: DC in FLO around.
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave in end. Fold Hat brim out and up.
Reindeer's Hat - Bobble
Worked from top down. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL D, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Bobble to Hat once you've made all the parts.
Worked from top down. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL D, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Bobble to Hat once you've made all the parts.
Reindeer's Scarf
Made with turned rows. Turning chain not included in the stitch count.
With COL B, chain 61.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 60 dc. Turn. 60 sts
Change to COL A.
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to COL B.
Row 3: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Made with turned rows. Turning chain not included in the stitch count.
With COL B, chain 61.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 60 dc. Turn. 60 sts
Change to COL A.
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to COL B.
Row 3: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Reindeer's Scarf - Pompoms - make 2
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL A, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Pompoms to the end of the scarf once you've made all the parts.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With COL A, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Pompoms to the end of the scarf once you've made all the parts.
Reindeer - right side
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Reindeer - back view
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Reindeer - left side
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Reindeer - Making Up
- Sew the stuffed Neck to the base of the Head.
- Sew the Bobble onto the top of the Hat.
- Sew the stuffed Hat on top of the Head.
- Sew the Antlers in place either side of the Hat.
- Pinch the finishing end of the Ear together to make a crease and secure in this shape with a couple of stitches. Sew the Ears in place either side of the Head, just under the Antlers.
- Sew the stuffed Muzzle in place on the front of the Head.
- Sew the stuffed Nose in place on top of the Muzzle.
- Sew the Eyes in place just above the Muzzle, spacing them about 5 sts apart.
- Sew the Pompoms onto the ends of the Scarf.
- Tie the Scarf round the Neck and stitch into place.
Reindeer - Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
Use a length of yarn in your choice of colour to make a hanging loop if you want to use the Reindeer as a tree decoration.
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
- With COL A, the single stitch highlight on each Eye.
- With COL F, the Mouth on the Muzzle.
Use a length of yarn in your choice of colour to make a hanging loop if you want to use the Reindeer as a tree decoration.
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: pia@mycrochetchums.com - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: pia@mycrochetchums.com - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
