Free Amigurumi Crochet Dairy Cow Pattern
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 45g approx of Snow White 106) for Body, Head, Ear, Head Tuft, Legs, Tail and Eye Highlight.
CC1: 15g approx of Jet Black (110) for Legs, Ear, Patches, Eyes, Embroidered Details and Tail.
CC2: 10 g approx of Icy Pink (246) for Muzzle, Ears, and Udders.
CC3: Small amount of Camel (502) for Horns.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 45g approx of Snow White 106) for Body, Head, Ear, Head Tuft, Legs, Tail and Eye Highlight.
CC1: 15g approx of Jet Black (110) for Legs, Ear, Patches, Eyes, Embroidered Details and Tail.
CC2: 10 g approx of Icy Pink (246) for Muzzle, Ears, and Udders.
CC3: Small amount of Camel (502) for Horns.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Hook
3mm
3mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
15 cm (6 in) approx from nose to tail.
15 cm (6 in) approx from nose to tail.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Where colour changes are indicated, they take place on the last yrh of the last dc of the previous rnd.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Dairy Cow is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Where colour changes are indicated, they take place on the last yrh of the last dc of the previous rnd.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Dairy Cow is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble. The equivalent stitch in US Terms is hdc - half double crochet.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble. The equivalent stitch in US Terms is hdc - half double crochet.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Body
Worked from the front to the back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 10: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 60 sts
Rnds 11-24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [8 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 26: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 27: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 28: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 29: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 30: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 31: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 32: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 33: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Worked from the front to the back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 10: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 60 sts
Rnds 11-24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [8 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 26: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 27: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 28: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 29: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 30: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 31: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 32: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 33: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Muzzle and Head
Worked from the front towards the back. Stuff as you go. Chains are not included in the stitch count. This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With CC2, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 6 dc in other side of ch, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 2 dc, [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 9: 2 dc, [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 24 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 12: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 15: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st, 6 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 48 sts
Rnd 16: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 7 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 54 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: 5 dc, [1 dc2tog, 7 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 48 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 23: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 24: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 25: Dc around.
Rnd 26: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 27: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 28: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 29: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 stitches and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Worked from the front towards the back. Stuff as you go. Chains are not included in the stitch count. This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With CC2, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 6 dc in other side of ch, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 2 dc, [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 9: 2 dc, [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 24 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 12: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 15: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st, 6 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 48 sts
Rnd 16: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 7 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 54 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: 5 dc, [1 dc2tog, 7 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 48 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 23: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 24: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 25: Dc around.
Rnd 26: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 27: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 28: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 29: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 stitches and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Front of Ears - make 2
This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE. Chains are not included in the stitch count.
With CC2, chain 5.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 4 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 4 dc in other side of ch, 2 ch. 8 sts
Rnd 2: [4 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 3: *4 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times**; rep from * to ** once more. 20 sts
Change to MC for first ear. Change to CC1 for second Ear.
Rnd 4: *5 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st**; rep from * to ** once more. 26 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn Tail for joining the Front of Ear to the Back of Ear.
This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE. Chains are not included in the stitch count.
With CC2, chain 5.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 4 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 4 dc in other side of ch, 2 ch. 8 sts
Rnd 2: [4 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 3: *4 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times**; rep from * to ** once more. 20 sts
Change to MC for first ear. Change to CC1 for second Ear.
Rnd 4: *5 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st**; rep from * to ** once more. 26 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn Tail for joining the Front of Ear to the Back of Ear.
Back of Ears - make 2
This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE. Chains are not included in the stitch count.
Make one each in MC and CC1.
Work Rnds 1 to 4 above without the colour change between Rnds 3 and 4.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the completed Ear to the Head once it's been joined to the Inner Ear and once you've finished making all parts of the Dairy Cow.
This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE. Chains are not included in the stitch count.
Make one each in MC and CC1.
Work Rnds 1 to 4 above without the colour change between Rnds 3 and 4.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the completed Ear to the Head once it's been joined to the Inner Ear and once you've finished making all parts of the Dairy Cow.
To join the Front & Back of Ears
Take one Front and one Back of Ear and sandwich them together back to back. Join them together using the long yarn tail from the Front of Ear by sewing through the last round of both the Front and Back all the way round. Weave in the end of the Front yarn tail. Leave the Back of Ear Yarn Tail long to sew the Ear onto the Head later.
Take one Front and one Back of Ear and sandwich them together back to back. Join them together using the long yarn tail from the Front of Ear by sewing through the last round of both the Front and Back all the way round. Weave in the end of the Front yarn tail. Leave the Back of Ear Yarn Tail long to sew the Ear onto the Head later.
Horns - make 2
Made from the tip of the horn back towards the Head. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 7 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Horn to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Made from the tip of the horn back towards the Head. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 7 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Horn to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Head Tuft
The chains and slip stitches are not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, [1 dc, 4 ch, starting in second ch from hook, 3 dc] 6 times, sl st into centre of magic ring to finish. 24 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Head Tuft to the Head once you've made all the parts.
The chains and slip stitches are not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, [1 dc, 4 ch, starting in second ch from hook, 3 dc] 6 times, sl st into centre of magic ring to finish. 24 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Head Tuft to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Udders
The Teats are worked separately from the Top of the Udder and then sewn on.
Top of Udder - stuff at end
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Top of the Udder to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Teats - make 4, do not stuff
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Teats to the Top of the Udder once you've made all the parts.
The Teats are worked separately from the Top of the Udder and then sewn on.
Top of Udder - stuff at end
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Top of the Udder to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Teats - make 4, do not stuff
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Teats to the Top of the Udder once you've made all the parts.
Legs - make 4
Made from the Hoof end up towards the top of the Leg. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 4: Working in the BLO for the whole round, dc around.
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 10-13: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Leg to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the Hoof end up towards the top of the Leg. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 4: Working in the BLO for the whole round, dc around.
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 10-13: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Leg to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Tail
Worked from the Body end of the Tail down to the tip. Do not stuff Rnds 1-9. Stuff as you go from Rnd 10 onwards. Make sure you have a long starting yarn tail.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnds 2-9: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 10: 2 dc in each st around. 8 sts
Rnd 11: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 4 times. 12 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end. You'll use the long starting yarn tail to sew the Tail to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the Body end of the Tail down to the tip. Do not stuff Rnds 1-9. Stuff as you go from Rnd 10 onwards. Make sure you have a long starting yarn tail.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnds 2-9: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 10: 2 dc in each st around. 8 sts
Rnd 11: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 4 times. 12 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end. You'll use the long starting yarn tail to sew the Tail to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Large Patches - make 3
The slip stitches in Rnd 4 are included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 3 htr in next st, 2 dc in next st, 3 sl st, [3 htr in next st] twice, 3 dc, 3 htr in next st, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 sl st. 29 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Patch to the Body once you've made all the parts.
The slip stitches in Rnd 4 are included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 3 htr in next st, 2 dc in next st, 3 sl st, [3 htr in next st] twice, 3 dc, 3 htr in next st, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 sl st. 29 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Patch to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Small Patches - make 3
The slip stitches in Rnd 2 are included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 1 htr] in next st, [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 1 dc, [3 htr] in next st, 1 sl st, [2 htr, 1 dc] in next st. 12 sts
Slip stitch into first dc of Rnd 2 to join. Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Patch to the Body once you've made all the parts.
The slip stitches in Rnd 2 are included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 1 htr] in next st, [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 1 dc, [3 htr] in next st, 1 sl st, [2 htr, 1 dc] in next st. 12 sts
Slip stitch into first dc of Rnd 2 to join. Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Patch to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the centre line of the Head, taking them under and up the back of the Head - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Do the same with the Body, marking a centre line all the way round. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
Using the central line on the Head as a guide, sew the Eyes in place so that their bottom edge is in line with Rnd 10 of the Head (the first MC round after the Muzzle section). Space the Eyes about 3 stitches apart.
Sew the Head Tuft in place in line with Rnd 18 of the Head, centrally positioned on top of the Head. Secure with a few stitches just through the centre of the Tuft.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the centre line of the Head, taking them under and up the back of the Head - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Do the same with the Body, marking a centre line all the way round. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
Using the central line on the Head as a guide, sew the Eyes in place so that their bottom edge is in line with Rnd 10 of the Head (the first MC round after the Muzzle section). Space the Eyes about 3 stitches apart.
Sew the Head Tuft in place in line with Rnd 18 of the Head, centrally positioned on top of the Head. Secure with a few stitches just through the centre of the Tuft.
Sew the Horns in place either side of the Head Tuft.
Taking each Ear in turn, pinch one end together to create a fold and secure this end in place with a few stitches. Sew the Ears in position next to the Horns.
You can now join the Head and Body. Rnd 19 of the Head should sit in line with the first round of the Body, under the Cow's chin. The last round of the Head should sit in line with Rnd 10 of the Body, where it joins the Cow's back. Position the Head so that the face is on a slight angle for maximum cuteness!
Attach the stuffed Top of the Udders so that it is centred on Rnd 17 of the underside of the Body. Sew the four teats onto the Top of the Udders.
Taking each Ear in turn, pinch one end together to create a fold and secure this end in place with a few stitches. Sew the Ears in position next to the Horns.
You can now join the Head and Body. Rnd 19 of the Head should sit in line with the first round of the Body, under the Cow's chin. The last round of the Head should sit in line with Rnd 10 of the Body, where it joins the Cow's back. Position the Head so that the face is on a slight angle for maximum cuteness!
Attach the stuffed Top of the Udders so that it is centred on Rnd 17 of the underside of the Body. Sew the four teats onto the Top of the Udders.
Attach the four Legs in place - two in front of and two behind the Udders.
Sew the Tail in place, roughly in line with Rnd 26 of the Body.
Sew the Large and Small Patches in place on the Body - it's best to pin all 6 in place first to ensure you're happy with the spacing.
Sew the Tail in place, roughly in line with Rnd 26 of the Body.
Sew the Large and Small Patches in place on the Body - it's best to pin all 6 in place first to ensure you're happy with the spacing.
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following:
Using a length of MC, create the "split" on the front of each Hoof. If you're not sure how to do this, have a look at my Amigurumi Toes Photo Tutorial which uses the same principle and shows you how to pull the yarn up to create the shape and how to fasten off, securing it in place. You can find the tutorial at: https://www.mycrochetchums.com/amigurumi-toes-photo-tutorial.html
With CC1, embroider his mouth and nostrils.
With MC embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following:
Using a length of MC, create the "split" on the front of each Hoof. If you're not sure how to do this, have a look at my Amigurumi Toes Photo Tutorial which uses the same principle and shows you how to pull the yarn up to create the shape and how to fasten off, securing it in place. You can find the tutorial at: https://www.mycrochetchums.com/amigurumi-toes-photo-tutorial.html
With CC1, embroider his mouth and nostrils.
With MC embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS