#lockdownamichallenge - No 5 - Hedgehog
#lockdownamichallenge No 5 Hedgehog
Scroll down the page for more pics of this cheeky fella!
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK
35g approx Brown (MC)- for Body, Legs and Tail
Small amount of Black (CC1) for Eyes.
Small amount of white for eye highlight.
Small amounts of Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo and Violet for rainbow ruffles and nose.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK
35g approx Brown (MC)- for Body, Legs and Tail
Small amount of Black (CC1) for Eyes.
Small amount of white for eye highlight.
Small amounts of Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo and Violet for rainbow ruffles and nose.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well.
Hook
3mm
3mm
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Other Supplies
yarn needle
toy stuffing
stitch marker/waste yarn.
yarn needle
toy stuffing
stitch marker/waste yarn.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
The Hedgehog is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together.Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
With pieces that start with a chain and have additional chains within the round, these are not counted in the total stitch count for that round.
Slip stitches are not counted in the total stitch count for a round.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
The Hedgehog is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together.Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
With pieces that start with a chain and have additional chains within the round, these are not counted in the total stitch count for that round.
Slip stitches are not counted in the total stitch count for a round.
Abbreviations used in this pattern - UK Crochet Terms
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If any of the abbreviations used in this pattern are unfamiliar, you can find a chart of UK Terms HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
BLO Decrease: When you are working in the back loops only, work the dc2tog BLO as follows:
Insert hook in BLO of next st, yrh, pull through st (2 loops on hook), insert hook in BLO of next st, yrh, pull through st (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
BLO Decrease: When you are working in the back loops only, work the dc2tog BLO as follows:
Insert hook in BLO of next st, yrh, pull through st (2 loops on hook), insert hook in BLO of next st, yrh, pull through st (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Hedgehog Right Side
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Hedgehog Front
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Hedgehog Left Side
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Time to start crocheting!
Body
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 10 dc, 20 dc BLO. 30 sts
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 13: 12 dc, 24 dc BLO. 36 sts
Rnd 14: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 15: 14 dc, 28 dc BLO. 42 sts
Rnd 16: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 17: 16 dc, 32 dc BLO. 48 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: 17 dc, 31 dc BLO. 48 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: 18 dc, 30 dc BLO. 48 sts
Rnd 22: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 23: 17 dc, 25 dc BLO. 42 sts
Rnd 24: 1 dc BLO, 41 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 25: Rep Rnd 23.
Rnd 26: 1 dc BLO, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times. 36 sts
Rnd 27: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice, 3 dc, 1 dc BLO, 1 dc2tog BLO, [4 dc BLO, 1 dc2tog BLO,] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 28: 2 dc BLO, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times. 24 sts
Rnd 29: [2 dc BLO, 1 dc2tog BLO] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 30: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times: 12 sts
Rnd 31: 6 dc2tog BLO. 6 sts
Fasten off but do not sew hole closed - you will be working into the FLO of Rnd 31 when you attach the ruffles.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 10 dc, 20 dc BLO. 30 sts
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 13: 12 dc, 24 dc BLO. 36 sts
Rnd 14: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 15: 14 dc, 28 dc BLO. 42 sts
Rnd 16: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 17: 16 dc, 32 dc BLO. 48 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: 17 dc, 31 dc BLO. 48 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: 18 dc, 30 dc BLO. 48 sts
Rnd 22: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 23: 17 dc, 25 dc BLO. 42 sts
Rnd 24: 1 dc BLO, 41 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 25: Rep Rnd 23.
Rnd 26: 1 dc BLO, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times. 36 sts
Rnd 27: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice, 3 dc, 1 dc BLO, 1 dc2tog BLO, [4 dc BLO, 1 dc2tog BLO,] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 28: 2 dc BLO, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times. 24 sts
Rnd 29: [2 dc BLO, 1 dc2tog BLO] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 30: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times: 12 sts
Rnd 31: 6 dc2tog BLO. 6 sts
Fasten off but do not sew hole closed - you will be working into the FLO of Rnd 31 when you attach the ruffles.
Legs - make 4
Lightly stuff the leg as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: {1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Lightly stuff the leg as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: {1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Tail
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Join with a slip st into top of first dc.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Join with a slip st into top of first dc.
Fasten off.
Nose
Rnd 1: With Blue (or colour of your choice) and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 1 dc 2 tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With Blue (or colour of your choice) and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 1 dc 2 tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Ruffles
With head end of Body facing towards you:
Row 1: Attach Red yarn to first unworked Front Loop of Rnd 10 and work {1 dc, 5 ch, 1dc] in each unused Front Loop across. Fasten off.
Row 2: Attach Orange yarn to first unworked Front Loop of Rnd 12 and repeat Row 1.
Continue with each colour working into the next set of unworked front loops of Rnds 14 (Yellow), 16 (Green), 18 (Blue), 20 (Indigo), 22 (Violet), 24 (Red), 26 (Orange), 28 (Yellow) and 30 (Green).
Attach Blue Yarn to Front Loop of first st of Rnd 31 and work same sequence of stitches around. Fasten off.
Final Ruffle is made separately and sewn on. With Indigo yarn, working into a magic ring, [1 dc, 3 ch] 4 times. Fasten off, Sew into place.
With head end of Body facing towards you:
Row 1: Attach Red yarn to first unworked Front Loop of Rnd 10 and work {1 dc, 5 ch, 1dc] in each unused Front Loop across. Fasten off.
Row 2: Attach Orange yarn to first unworked Front Loop of Rnd 12 and repeat Row 1.
Continue with each colour working into the next set of unworked front loops of Rnds 14 (Yellow), 16 (Green), 18 (Blue), 20 (Indigo), 22 (Violet), 24 (Red), 26 (Orange), 28 (Yellow) and 30 (Green).
Attach Blue Yarn to Front Loop of first st of Rnd 31 and work same sequence of stitches around. Fasten off.
Final Ruffle is made separately and sewn on. With Indigo yarn, working into a magic ring, [1 dc, 3 ch] 4 times. Fasten off, Sew into place.
Hedgehog Rear
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Hedgehog Base
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Making up.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the nose to the point of the Body.
Sew the eyes in position in line with Rnd 7 approx, about 4 stitches apart.
Sew the legs and tail in position.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the nose to the point of the Body.
Sew the eyes in position in line with Rnd 7 approx, about 4 stitches apart.
Sew the legs and tail in position.
Embroidered details.
Use White to embroider the highlights on the eyes and Black to embroider the hedgehog’s smile.
Use White to embroider the highlights on the eyes and Black to embroider the hedgehog’s smile.
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
© Pia Simpson My Crochet Chums 2021
