#stashbusterchums - No 49 - Snail
No 49 - Snail
Scroll down for pattern and more photos!
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 25g approx of Tropic (253) for Body, Head, Tail and Bottom Frill.
CC1: 25g approx of Poppy Rose (390) for Shell, Antennae and Heart.
CC2: 10g approx of Tangerine (281) for Shell.
CC3: 10 g approx of Royal Orange (189) for Shell.
CC4: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes and Mouth.
CC5: Small amount of Bridal White (105) for Eye Highlights.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 25g approx of Tropic (253) for Body, Head, Tail and Bottom Frill.
CC1: 25g approx of Poppy Rose (390) for Shell, Antennae and Heart.
CC2: 10g approx of Tangerine (281) for Shell.
CC3: 10 g approx of Royal Orange (189) for Shell.
CC4: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes and Mouth.
CC5: Small amount of Bridal White (105) for Eye Highlights.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Tension
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Size
Approx 14 cm (5.5 in) tall.
Approx 14 cm (5.5 in) tall.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Shell is made flat using turned Rows. Each Row starts with 1 turning chain - this is not included in the stitch count.
The flat Shell piece is then folded longways and stitched together along the long sides to create a tube which is then stuffed.
The Snail is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Shell is made flat using turned Rows. Each Row starts with 1 turning chain - this is not included in the stitch count.
The flat Shell piece is then folded longways and stitched together along the long sides to create a tube which is then stuffed.
The Snail is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble crochet and UK tr - treble crochet - the US equivalents are US hdc - half double crochet and US dc - double crochet.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble crochet and UK tr - treble crochet - the US equivalents are US hdc - half double crochet and US dc - double crochet.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Snail - Front Right
|
Snail - Back Left
|
Body & Head
The front of the Body & Head is worked first, as one piece. The Tail Section is worked separately and then the two pieces are stitched together once all the parts have been made.
Worked from the bottom upwards. Stuff as you go. This piece uses an Oval Start rather than a Magic Ring - there's a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the technique HERE.
The chains in Rnd 1 are not included in the stitch count.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 11 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 15 dc. 33 sts
Rnd 9: 11 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 14 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 10: 11 dc, 3 dc2tog, 13 dc. 27 sts
Rnd 11: 10 dc, 3 dc2tog, 11 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 12: 8 dc, 3 dc2tog, 10 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 13: 6 dc, 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 19-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 23: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 25: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 26-27: Dc around.
Rnd 28: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 29: Dc around.
Rnd 30: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 31: Dc around.
Rnd 32: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 33: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
The front of the Body & Head is worked first, as one piece. The Tail Section is worked separately and then the two pieces are stitched together once all the parts have been made.
Worked from the bottom upwards. Stuff as you go. This piece uses an Oval Start rather than a Magic Ring - there's a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the technique HERE.
The chains in Rnd 1 are not included in the stitch count.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 11 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 15 dc. 33 sts
Rnd 9: 11 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 14 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 10: 11 dc, 3 dc2tog, 13 dc. 27 sts
Rnd 11: 10 dc, 3 dc2tog, 11 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 12: 8 dc, 3 dc2tog, 10 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 13: 6 dc, 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 19-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 23: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 25: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 26-27: Dc around.
Rnd 28: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 29: Dc around.
Rnd 30: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 31: Dc around.
Rnd 32: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 33: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Tail Section
Worked from the end point towards the main part of the Body. Stuff as you go, stopping at Rnd 16 so that the Tail Section will sit snuggly against the Body part.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 6 dc. 14 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 8 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 21 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tail Section to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the end point towards the main part of the Body. Stuff as you go, stopping at Rnd 16 so that the Tail Section will sit snuggly against the Body part.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 6 dc. 14 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 8 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 21 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tail Section to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Bottom Frill
The chains in Rnd 1 are not included in the stitch count.
With MC, chain 16.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 15 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 15 dc, 2 ch. 30 sts
Rnd 2: [15 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 36 sts
Rnd 3: *15 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times**; rep from *to ** once more. 42 sts
Rnd 4: Working in the BLO for the whole round, 3 htr in each st around, 1 sl st into first htr to join.
Fasten off. Weave in end.
The chains in Rnd 1 are not included in the stitch count.
With MC, chain 16.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 15 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 15 dc, 2 ch. 30 sts
Rnd 2: [15 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 36 sts
Rnd 3: *15 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times**; rep from *to ** once more. 42 sts
Rnd 4: Working in the BLO for the whole round, 3 htr in each st around, 1 sl st into first htr to join.
Fasten off. Weave in end.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a Magic Ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a Magic Ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Antennae- make 2
Worked from the top down. Stuff as you go - do not stuff beyond Rnd 5.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Antennae to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the top down. Stuff as you go - do not stuff beyond Rnd 5.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Antennae to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Heart
The chains in Rnd 1 are not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC1, and working into a magic ring, 1 htr, 1 tr, 1 htr, 2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc, 1 htr, 1 tr, 1 htr, 1 sl st into centre of magic ring.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Heart to the Body once you've made all the parts.
The chains in Rnd 1 are not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC1, and working into a magic ring, 1 htr, 1 tr, 1 htr, 2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc, 1 htr, 1 tr, 1 htr, 1 sl st into centre of magic ring.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Heart to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Shell
The Shell is worked flat in turned rows. Once all the Rows are completed the piece is folded in half longways and the long edges are sewn together to create a tube which is then stuffed. The turning chains are not included in the stitch count. There are 18 stitches in each row.
With CC1, chain 19.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 18 dc. Turn. 18 sts
Rows 2-4: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC2.
Rows 5-6: 1ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 7-10: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC3.
Rows 11-12: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 13-16: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC2.
Rows 17-18: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 19-22: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC3.
Rows 23-24: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 25-28: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC2.
Rows 29-30: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 31-34: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC3.
Rows 35-36: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 37-40: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC2.
Rows 41- 42: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 43-46: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC3.
Rows 47-48: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 49-52: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC2.
Rows 53-54: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 55-58: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC3.
Rows 59-60: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 61-68: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail. Fold the piece in half longways and use the yarn tail to sew the two long edges together, creating a tube. Sew the edges of the first Row together to seal the starting end of the tube. Stuff the tube - do not overstuff, it needs to remain flexible.
The Shell is worked flat in turned rows. Once all the Rows are completed the piece is folded in half longways and the long edges are sewn together to create a tube which is then stuffed. The turning chains are not included in the stitch count. There are 18 stitches in each row.
With CC1, chain 19.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 18 dc. Turn. 18 sts
Rows 2-4: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC2.
Rows 5-6: 1ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 7-10: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC3.
Rows 11-12: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 13-16: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC2.
Rows 17-18: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 19-22: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC3.
Rows 23-24: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 25-28: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC2.
Rows 29-30: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 31-34: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC3.
Rows 35-36: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 37-40: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC2.
Rows 41- 42: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 43-46: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC3.
Rows 47-48: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 49-52: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC2.
Rows 53-54: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 55-58: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC3.
Rows 59-60: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC1.
Rows 61-68: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail. Fold the piece in half longways and use the yarn tail to sew the two long edges together, creating a tube. Sew the edges of the first Row together to seal the starting end of the tube. Stuff the tube - do not overstuff, it needs to remain flexible.
Snail - Right
|
Snail - Base
|
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Tail Section onto the back end of the Body & Head part - the Tail Section curves slightly, make sure it sits so that the curve point upwards.
Sew the Bottom Frill onto the base of the joined Body and Tail Section.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Tail Section onto the back end of the Body & Head part - the Tail Section curves slightly, make sure it sits so that the curve point upwards.
Sew the Bottom Frill onto the base of the joined Body and Tail Section.
Snail - Shell detail
|
Snail - Heart Detail
|
Sew the Eyes in place on the front of the Head, about 6 rounds down from the top and about 3 stitches apart.
Sew the Antennae in place on top of the Head sitting about 2 rounds down from the top.
Sew the Heart in place on the front of the Body, off set slightly to the left.
Place the Shell tube on a surface in front of you with the closed short edge nearest you and the seam on the long edge facing upwards. Starting at the end nearest you, roll the tube up away from you, concealing the seam and creating a smooth spiral. You may find it's easiest to pin it into the spiral shape first to ensure you are happy with the shape before sewing through the layers to secure it in the shape or you can stitch it as you go when rolling it up to hold it in shape.
Once it's secured into a spiral shape, pin the Shell in place on the Snail's back with the open end sitting nearest to his neck. Stitch in place along his back.
Sew the Antennae in place on top of the Head sitting about 2 rounds down from the top.
Sew the Heart in place on the front of the Body, off set slightly to the left.
Place the Shell tube on a surface in front of you with the closed short edge nearest you and the seam on the long edge facing upwards. Starting at the end nearest you, roll the tube up away from you, concealing the seam and creating a smooth spiral. You may find it's easiest to pin it into the spiral shape first to ensure you are happy with the shape before sewing through the layers to secure it in the shape or you can stitch it as you go when rolling it up to hold it in shape.
Once it's secured into a spiral shape, pin the Shell in place on the Snail's back with the open end sitting nearest to his neck. Stitch in place along his back.
Snail - Face detail
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle embroider the following details:
Single stitch highlight on each Eye, using CC5.
The Nose, just below the Eyes using MC - oversew several times in the same place to create a bump.
The smile using CC4.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle embroider the following details:
Single stitch highlight on each Eye, using CC5.
The Nose, just below the Eyes using MC - oversew several times in the same place to create a bump.
The smile using CC4.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2022
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2022
