#stashbusterchums - No 42 - Ladybug
Scroll down for pattern and more photos!
No 42 - Ladybug
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 30g approx of Jet Black (110) for Body, Legs, Antennae, Head Cap and Spots.
CC1: 20g approx of Hot Red (115) for Wings and Mouth.
CC2: 10g approx of Linen (505) for Head.
CC3: Small amount of Bridal White (105) for Eye Highlights.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of meters per 50g.
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 30g approx of Jet Black (110) for Body, Legs, Antennae, Head Cap and Spots.
CC1: 20g approx of Hot Red (115) for Wings and Mouth.
CC2: 10g approx of Linen (505) for Head.
CC3: Small amount of Bridal White (105) for Eye Highlights.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of meters per 50g.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 14cm (5.5n) from nose to tail.
Approx 14cm (5.5n) from nose to tail.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial at: https://www.mycrochetchums.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html
The Ladybug is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial at: https://www.mycrochetchums.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html
The Ladybug is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble - the equivalent stitch in US terms is hdc - half double.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble - the equivalent stitch in US terms is hdc - half double.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Ladybug - Front Left
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Ladybug - Back Left
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Body
Worked from the underside upwards. Stuff as you go.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6dc, [2dc in next st] 3 times**; rep from * to ** once more. 24 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 6: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 7: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 8: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 9: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 60 sts
Rnd 10: Working in the BLO, dc around.
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [8 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 13: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 14: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 16: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 19: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 20: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave in end.
Worked from the underside upwards. Stuff as you go.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6dc, [2dc in next st] 3 times**; rep from * to ** once more. 24 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 6: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 7: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 8: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 9: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 60 sts
Rnd 10: Working in the BLO, dc around.
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [8 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 13: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 14: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 16: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 19: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 20: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave in end.
Wings - make 2
The Wings are made as flat circles which are then folded in half and the outer edge stitched closed to form a semi-circle.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 10: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 60 sts
Rnds 11-14: Dc around.
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail. Fold the circle in half and use the tail with a tapestry needle to sew the outer edge closed creating a double thickness semi-circle.
The Wings are made as flat circles which are then folded in half and the outer edge stitched closed to form a semi-circle.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 10: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 60 sts
Rnds 11-14: Dc around.
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail. Fold the circle in half and use the tail with a tapestry needle to sew the outer edge closed creating a double thickness semi-circle.
Head
Made from front to back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 12: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 13: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 14: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Made from front to back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 12: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 13: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 14: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Head Cap
Worked from back to front. Fits over the Head.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 12 dc, [2 htr in next st] 4 times, 14 dc. 34 sts
Rnd 10: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice, 3 dc, [2 htr in next st] twice, 3 dc, [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog. 31 sts
Fasten off.
Worked from back to front. Fits over the Head.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 12 dc, [2 htr in next st] 4 times, 14 dc. 34 sts
Rnd 10: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice, 3 dc, [2 htr in next st] twice, 3 dc, [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog. 31 sts
Fasten off.
Legs - make 6
Worked from bottom upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Worked from bottom upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Antennae - make 2
Worked from the top downwards. Stuff Rnds 1-3 lightly, no need to stuff rest.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnds 5-7: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Worked from the top downwards. Stuff Rnds 1-3 lightly, no need to stuff rest.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnds 5-7: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Spots - make 8
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, sl st in beg dc to join. 12 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, sl st in beg dc to join. 12 sts
Fasten off.
Pupils - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc, sl st in beg dc to join.. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc, sl st in beg dc to join.. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Ladybug - top
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Ladybug - rear
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Wings onto the back of the Body - attach both at the same end - this will be the "neck".
Insert the Head into the Head cap and stitch all the way round the outer edge of the Head Cap to give a neat finish. Sew this onto the Body, over the top of where the Wings join onto it. The point of the Head cap sits at the top of the face.
Sew the Legs in place on the underside of the Body sitting roughly in line with Rnd 7, with two Legs positioned towards the front, two towards the Ladybug's bottom and the last two between the front and back pairs. (See photo below).
Sew the Spots onto the Wings.
Sew the Antennae to the top of the Head, roughly 3 sts apart.
Sew the Eyes onto the face, roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Head.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Wings onto the back of the Body - attach both at the same end - this will be the "neck".
Insert the Head into the Head cap and stitch all the way round the outer edge of the Head Cap to give a neat finish. Sew this onto the Body, over the top of where the Wings join onto it. The point of the Head cap sits at the top of the face.
Sew the Legs in place on the underside of the Body sitting roughly in line with Rnd 7, with two Legs positioned towards the front, two towards the Ladybug's bottom and the last two between the front and back pairs. (See photo below).
Sew the Spots onto the Wings.
Sew the Antennae to the top of the Head, roughly 3 sts apart.
Sew the Eyes onto the face, roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Head.
Ladybug - Face
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Ladybug - Base
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Embroidered Details
Using the photo above as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following details:
Single stitch highlight on each Pupil using CC3.
Nose over Rnd 1 of the Head using CC2.
Mouth below Nose using CC1.
All done!
Using the photo above as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following details:
Single stitch highlight on each Pupil using CC3.
Nose over Rnd 1 of the Head using CC2.
Mouth below Nose using CC1.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
