#lockdownamichallenge - No 39 - Peacock
No 39 Peacock
Scroll down for more pictures!
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
25g approx of Navy (MC) for HeadNeck and Body.
20g approx of Bright Green (CC1) Feathers, Head Plumes. and Embroidered Details.
15g approx of Pale Blue (CC2) for Body and Feathers.
10g approx of Pale Green (CC3) for Feathers, Head Plumes and Embroidered Details.
5g approx of Yellow (CC4) for Beak and Feet.
5g approx of Purple (CC5) for Feathers and Embroidered Details.
Small amount of Aqua (CC6) for Embroidered Details.
Small amount of White (CC7) for Eyes.
Small amount of Black (CC8) for Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
25g approx of Navy (MC) for HeadNeck and Body.
20g approx of Bright Green (CC1) Feathers, Head Plumes. and Embroidered Details.
15g approx of Pale Blue (CC2) for Body and Feathers.
10g approx of Pale Green (CC3) for Feathers, Head Plumes and Embroidered Details.
5g approx of Yellow (CC4) for Beak and Feet.
5g approx of Purple (CC5) for Feathers and Embroidered Details.
Small amount of Aqua (CC6) for Embroidered Details.
Small amount of White (CC7) for Eyes.
Small amount of Black (CC8) for Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 16cm (6.5in) from top to toe.
Approx 16cm (6.5in) from top to toe.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Peacock is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Peacock is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble (US hdc -half double) and UK tr - treble (US dc - double).
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble (US hdc -half double) and UK tr - treble (US dc - double).
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Peacock - Front Right
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Peacock - Front left
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Body
Worked from front of Body to back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [3 dc, 1 dec2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 20: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull up to close hole. Weave in end.
Worked from front of Body to back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [3 dc, 1 dec2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 20: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull up to close hole. Weave in end.
Head & Neck
Worked from top of Head downwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 5-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 10: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 13-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 23: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Fasten off.
Worked from top of Head downwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 5-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 10: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 13-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 23: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Fasten off.
Tail Fan
Worked from bottom of fan upwards.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 12: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 13: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 14: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 15: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 60 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: *1 sl st, miss next st, [3tr in next st] twice, miss next st, 1 sl st; rep from * 9 more times. 50 sts
Fasten off. Flatten so that the scallops on the edge line up and use a length of CC2 to sew the open edge closed.
Worked from bottom of fan upwards.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 12: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 13: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 14: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 15: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 60 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: *1 sl st, miss next st, [3tr in next st] twice, miss next st, 1 sl st; rep from * 9 more times. 50 sts
Fasten off. Flatten so that the scallops on the edge line up and use a length of CC2 to sew the open edge closed.
Feather Detail
Made in two parts - “Outer” made with CC2 and “Centre” made with CC5. Make 5 of each.
Outer:
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 2 dc, 2 htr, 3 tr, 2 htr, 2 dc, sl st into first dc to
join. 12 sts
Fasten off.
Centre:
Rnd 1: With CC5 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st into first dc to join. 5 sts
Fasten off.
Made in two parts - “Outer” made with CC2 and “Centre” made with CC5. Make 5 of each.
Outer:
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 2 dc, 2 htr, 3 tr, 2 htr, 2 dc, sl st into first dc to
join. 12 sts
Fasten off.
Centre:
Rnd 1: With CC5 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st into first dc to join. 5 sts
Fasten off.
Beak
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off. Stuff the beak.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off. Stuff the beak.
White of Eyes
Make 2.
Rnd 1: With CC7 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Fasten off.
Make 2.
Rnd 1: With CC7 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Fasten off.
Pupils
Make 2.
Rnd 1: With CC8 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st into first dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Make 2.
Rnd 1: With CC8 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st into first dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Feet
Make 2. Do not stuff. Worked from front of foot to back.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole.
Make 2. Do not stuff. Worked from front of foot to back.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole.
Head Plumes
Make 3. Made in two separate parts ,“Stem” and “Bobble”, then sewn together.
Stem:
With CC3, chain 6.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 5 sl st. 5 sts
Fasten off.
Bobble:
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Fasten off. weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Sew the Bobbles onto one end of the Stems.
Make 3. Made in two separate parts ,“Stem” and “Bobble”, then sewn together.
Stem:
With CC3, chain 6.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 5 sl st. 5 sts
Fasten off.
Bobble:
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Fasten off. weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Sew the Bobbles onto one end of the Stems.
Peacock - Base
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Peacock - Back
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Head and Neck onto the Body with the front edge of the Neck roughly in line with Rnd 5 of the Body.
Sew the Head Plumes to the top of the Head -join the Stems together up to their halfway point to help the plumes stand up.
Sew the Beak onto the front of the Head with the top of it sitting roughly in line with Rnd 5 of the Head. Sew the Whites of the Eyes either side of the Beak . Sew the Pupils on top of the Whites of the Eyes.
Sew the Tail Fan to the back of the Body,. Sew the “Outers” of the Feather detail to the front of the Tail Fan in line with the scallops of the edge, with the points pointing downwards.. Sew the “Centres” of the Feather detail on top of the Outers set to the bottoms of the Outers.
Sew the Feet to the bottom of the Body - roughly in line with Rnd 9 - spaced about 5 stitches apart.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Head and Neck onto the Body with the front edge of the Neck roughly in line with Rnd 5 of the Body.
Sew the Head Plumes to the top of the Head -join the Stems together up to their halfway point to help the plumes stand up.
Sew the Beak onto the front of the Head with the top of it sitting roughly in line with Rnd 5 of the Head. Sew the Whites of the Eyes either side of the Beak . Sew the Pupils on top of the Whites of the Eyes.
Sew the Tail Fan to the back of the Body,. Sew the “Outers” of the Feather detail to the front of the Tail Fan in line with the scallops of the edge, with the points pointing downwards.. Sew the “Centres” of the Feather detail on top of the Outers set to the bottoms of the Outers.
Sew the Feet to the bottom of the Body - roughly in line with Rnd 9 - spaced about 5 stitches apart.
Peacock - Chest Detail
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Peacock - Feather Detail
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Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following details:
Chest details - using CC1, CC3 and CC5.
Feather detail on front of Tail Fan - using CC6.
Star detail on back of Tail Fan - using CC6.
Single stitch eye highlight on Pupils - using CC7.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following details:
Chest details - using CC1, CC3 and CC5.
Feather detail on front of Tail Fan - using CC6.
Star detail on back of Tail Fan - using CC6.
Single stitch eye highlight on Pupils - using CC7.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
