#lockdownamichallenge - No 37 - Stripy Dog
No 37 Stripy Dog
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Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
25g approx of Buttermilk (MC) for Body, Head and Tail.
15g approx of Dark Brown (CC1) Nose, Ear, Legs, Stripes and Tail.
5g approx of Peach (CC2) for Head and Tail.
5g approx of Ginger (CC3) for Ear and Stripes.
5g approx of Soft Teal (CC4) for Eye Patch, Leg and Stripe.
Small amount of Mid Brown (CC5) for Stripe and Tail.
Small amount of Sand (CC6) for Stripe and Tail.
Small amount of Black(CC7) for face detail.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
25g approx of Buttermilk (MC) for Body, Head and Tail.
15g approx of Dark Brown (CC1) Nose, Ear, Legs, Stripes and Tail.
5g approx of Peach (CC2) for Head and Tail.
5g approx of Ginger (CC3) for Ear and Stripes.
5g approx of Soft Teal (CC4) for Eye Patch, Leg and Stripe.
Small amount of Mid Brown (CC5) for Stripe and Tail.
Small amount of Sand (CC6) for Stripe and Tail.
Small amount of Black(CC7) for face detail.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 20cm (8in) from nose to tail.
Approx 20cm (8in) from nose to tail.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Dog is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Dog is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Dog - Front Right
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Dog - Back Right
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Head
Worked from front of Head to back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 18-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 22: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 23: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 25: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 26: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull up to close hole. Weave in end.
Worked from front of Head to back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 18-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 22: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 23: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 25: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 26: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull up to close hole. Weave in end.
Body
Worked from front of body to back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-10: Dc around.
Change to CC5.
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 1 dc, change to CC1, 35 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 2 dc, change to CC6, 34 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: 3 dc, change to CC3, 33 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: 4 dc, change to CC1, 32 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: 5 dc, change to CC4, 31 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: 6 dc, change to MC, 30 dc. 36 sts
Rnds 24-25: Dc around.
Rnd 26: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 27: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 28: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 29: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 30: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull up to close hole. Weave in end.
Worked from front of body to back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-10: Dc around.
Change to CC5.
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 1 dc, change to CC1, 35 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 2 dc, change to CC6, 34 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: 3 dc, change to CC3, 33 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: 4 dc, change to CC1, 32 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: 5 dc, change to CC4, 31 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: 6 dc, change to MC, 30 dc. 36 sts
Rnds 24-25: Dc around.
Rnd 26: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 27: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 28: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 29: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 30: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull up to close hole. Weave in end.
Ears - make 2
Worked from top of Ear to bottom. Make one each in CC1 and CC3. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 5-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Worked from top of Ear to bottom. Make one each in CC1 and CC3. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 5-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Nose
Worked from top of Nose to bottom.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Fasten off. Stuff Nose.
Worked from top of Nose to bottom.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Fasten off. Stuff Nose.
Eye Patch
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Fasten off.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC7 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC7 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Legs - make 4
Worked from bottom of Leg upwards. Make three in CC1 and one in CC4. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 6: 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc2tog, 8 dc. 10 sts
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Worked from bottom of Leg upwards. Make three in CC1 and one in CC4. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 6: 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc2tog, 8 dc. 10 sts
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Tail
Worked from top of Tail down. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Change to CC5.
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 9: 2 dc in next st, 7 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 2 dc in next st, 8 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Change to CC6.
Rnds 13-15: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Worked from top of Tail down. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Change to CC5.
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 9: 2 dc in next st, 7 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 2 dc in next st, 8 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Change to CC6.
Rnds 13-15: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Dog - Rear
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Dog - Left Side
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Eye Patch in place in front of the Dog’s right ear - the bottom of the Eye Patch should sit roughly in line with Rnd 10 of the Head. Sew the Right Eye in place on top of the Eye Patch and the Left Eye directly on to the Head, roughly in line with Rnd 12 of the Head.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Eye Patch in place in front of the Dog’s right ear - the bottom of the Eye Patch should sit roughly in line with Rnd 10 of the Head. Sew the Right Eye in place on top of the Eye Patch and the Left Eye directly on to the Head, roughly in line with Rnd 12 of the Head.
Dog - Base
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Dog - Front
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Sew the two front Legs in place on the bottom of the Body, sitting closely together, with the back of the legs joining the Body just in front of the start of the stripy section.
Sew the two back Legs in place on the bottom of the Body, sitting closely together, with the back of the legs joining the Body on the last stripe of the Stripy section.
To increase the stability of the legs, to help the Dog to stand well, stitch the two Front legs to each other from where they join the body down the inside leg for about 1cm. Do the same with the two back Legs.
Sew the Tail in place on top of the Body at the back, making sure it’s sitting on the MC section rather than on the stripy area.
Sew the two back Legs in place on the bottom of the Body, sitting closely together, with the back of the legs joining the Body on the last stripe of the Stripy section.
To increase the stability of the legs, to help the Dog to stand well, stitch the two Front legs to each other from where they join the body down the inside leg for about 1cm. Do the same with the two back Legs.
Sew the Tail in place on top of the Body at the back, making sure it’s sitting on the MC section rather than on the stripy area.
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide with a yarn needle, use CC1 to embroider the Mouth and MC to embroider the single stitch highlight on the Eyes and the Claws on each Leg.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide with a yarn needle, use CC1 to embroider the Mouth and MC to embroider the single stitch highlight on the Eyes and the Claws on each Leg.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
