#lockdownamichallenge - No 35 - Chameleon
Scroll down for more pictures!
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
30g approx of Lime Green (MC) for Body, Head, Arms, Legs and Tail.
10g approx of Purple (CC1) Hands, Feet and Back Trim.
Small amount of Orange (CC2) for Belly Patch, Tail, Eyes and embroidered detail.
Small amount of Cream (CC3) for Eyes.
Small amount of Black(CC4) for face detail.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
30g approx of Lime Green (MC) for Body, Head, Arms, Legs and Tail.
10g approx of Purple (CC1) Hands, Feet and Back Trim.
Small amount of Orange (CC2) for Belly Patch, Tail, Eyes and embroidered detail.
Small amount of Cream (CC3) for Eyes.
Small amount of Black(CC4) for face detail.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 18cm (7in) from top of head to feet.
Approx 18cm (7in) from top of head to feet.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Chameleon is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Chameleon is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Chameleon - Back Right
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Chameleon - Back
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Body
Stuff as you go. Worked from the bottom up.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 9 dc, 2 dc2tog, 8 dc, 2 dc2tog, 11 dc. 32 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 11 dc, 2 dc2tog, 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 7 dc. 28 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: 11 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 26 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: 2 dc2tog, 22 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 21: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: 3 dc.
Fasten off. The fastening off point will be at the back of the body when it is joined to the head.
Stuff as you go. Worked from the bottom up.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 9 dc, 2 dc2tog, 8 dc, 2 dc2tog, 11 dc. 32 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 11 dc, 2 dc2tog, 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 7 dc. 28 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: 11 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 26 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: 2 dc2tog, 22 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 21: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: 3 dc.
Fasten off. The fastening off point will be at the back of the body when it is joined to the head.
Head
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 17: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 18: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 17: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 18: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Tail
Follow the instructions after the last round to shape and stuff the tail. Do not stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnds 7-10: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 13 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: 2 dc in next st, 7 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times.12 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around.
Rnd 27: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Fasten off. Using the photos as a guide, roll the end of the tail up as shown and stitch through to hold the swirl in place, then stuff the open end of the tail piece.
Follow the instructions after the last round to shape and stuff the tail. Do not stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnds 7-10: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 13 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: 2 dc in next st, 7 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times.12 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around.
Rnd 27: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Fasten off. Using the photos as a guide, roll the end of the tail up as shown and stitch through to hold the swirl in place, then stuff the open end of the tail piece.
Legs - make 4
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Working in BLO dc around. 6 sts
Rnds 3-9: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Working in BLO dc around. 6 sts
Rnds 3-9: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Feet - make 4
For each foot you need to make two toes - the first is fastened off at the end of Rnd 5. Do not fasten off the second toe - instead continue on to Rnd 6. In this Rnd you will attach the first toe to the second.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 5 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 6 sts
Fasten off first toe at the end of Rnd 5. Repeat Rnds 1-5 to make the second toe but do not fasten off - continue straight on to Rnd 6:
Rnd 6: 3 dc, then starting in next unused st of first toe to join, 6 dc, then starting in next unused stitch of second toe, 3 dc. 12 sts
(Don’t worry if there is a hole where the toes join - you can stitch this closed with a length of CC1 once you have finished the foot.)
Rnd 7: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 8: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull up to close hole. Weave in end.
For each foot you need to make two toes - the first is fastened off at the end of Rnd 5. Do not fasten off the second toe - instead continue on to Rnd 6. In this Rnd you will attach the first toe to the second.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 5 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 6 sts
Fasten off first toe at the end of Rnd 5. Repeat Rnds 1-5 to make the second toe but do not fasten off - continue straight on to Rnd 6:
Rnd 6: 3 dc, then starting in next unused st of first toe to join, 6 dc, then starting in next unused stitch of second toe, 3 dc. 12 sts
(Don’t worry if there is a hole where the toes join - you can stitch this closed with a length of CC1 once you have finished the foot.)
Rnd 7: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 8: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull up to close hole. Weave in end.
Belly Patch
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Fasten off. Using a length of CC1 and a yarn needle, decorate the belly patch with a spiral of running stitches worked into the base of each round of stitches from the edge back to the centre.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Fasten off. Using a length of CC1 and a yarn needle, decorate the belly patch with a spiral of running stitches worked into the base of each round of stitches from the edge back to the centre.
Head Crest
Chains are not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 5 dc. Turn. 5 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in each st across. Turn. 10 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times. Turn. 15 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 4: 1 ch, [1 dc, 2 ch] 14 times, 1 dc. 15 sts
Fasten off.
Chains are not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 5 dc. Turn. 5 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in each st across. Turn. 10 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times. Turn. 15 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 4: 1 ch, [1 dc, 2 ch] 14 times, 1 dc. 15 sts
Fasten off.
Head Trim
Chains are not included in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 11.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, [1 dc, 2 ch] in each st, finishing with 1 dc in last st of chain. 10 sts
Fasten off.
Chains are not included in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 11.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, [1 dc, 2 ch] in each st, finishing with 1 dc in last st of chain. 10 sts
Fasten off.
Back Trim
Chains are not included in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 13.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, [1 dc, 2 ch] in each st, finishing with 1 dc in last st of chain. 12 sts
Fasten off.
Chains are not included in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 13.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, [1 dc, 2 ch] in each st, finishing with 1 dc in last st of chain. 12 sts
Fasten off.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Change to CC3.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Change to CC3.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Fasten off.
Pupil - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Chameleon - Base
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Chameleon - Left Side
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Body to the Head, making sure the pointed part of the Head is facing forward and the fastening off point of the Body is to the back.
Sew the Tail in place, making sure the spiral curls under. The lower edge of the tail piece should sit roughly in line with Rnd 3 of the Body.
Sew the feet to the legs.
Attach the two lower Legs to the Body, locating them roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body but set forward so that the Chameleon will be able to sit on his bottom.
Attach the upper Legs to either side of the Body, about two Rnds down from where the Body joins the Head.
Attach the Body trim down the centre line of the back with the top of it sitting where the Body and Head join. Attach the Head trim to the centre line of the back of the Head with the bottom of it sitting where the Body and Head join. Attach the Head Crest with the back edge of it butted up to the front edge of the Head Trim.
Attach the Eyes to each side of the Head. Attach the Pupils on top of the Eyes, set up and back from the centre.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Body to the Head, making sure the pointed part of the Head is facing forward and the fastening off point of the Body is to the back.
Sew the Tail in place, making sure the spiral curls under. The lower edge of the tail piece should sit roughly in line with Rnd 3 of the Body.
Sew the feet to the legs.
Attach the two lower Legs to the Body, locating them roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body but set forward so that the Chameleon will be able to sit on his bottom.
Attach the upper Legs to either side of the Body, about two Rnds down from where the Body joins the Head.
Attach the Body trim down the centre line of the back with the top of it sitting where the Body and Head join. Attach the Head trim to the centre line of the back of the Head with the bottom of it sitting where the Body and Head join. Attach the Head Crest with the back edge of it butted up to the front edge of the Head Trim.
Attach the Eyes to each side of the Head. Attach the Pupils on top of the Eyes, set up and back from the centre.
Chameleon - Front
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Chameleon - Face Detail
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Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide (see the ones on the next page too), with a yarn needle, use CC4 to embroider the Mouth, CC1 to embroider the nostrils and the spiral on the belly, CC2 for the star details on the Body and CC3 to add the single stitch highlight to the Pupils.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide (see the ones on the next page too), with a yarn needle, use CC4 to embroider the Mouth, CC1 to embroider the nostrils and the spiral on the belly, CC2 for the star details on the Body and CC3 to add the single stitch highlight to the Pupils.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
