#lockdownamichallenge - No 26 - Sloth
No 26 Sloth
Scroll down for more pictures!
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
40g approx of Pale Peach (MC) for Head, Body, Arms and Legs.
20g approx of Light Beige (CC1) for Face, Hands and Feet.
15 g approx of Brown (CC2) for Eye Patches, Nose and Embroidered Detail.
Small amount of Black (CC3) for Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
40g approx of Pale Peach (MC) for Head, Body, Arms and Legs.
20g approx of Light Beige (CC1) for Face, Hands and Feet.
15 g approx of Brown (CC2) for Eye Patches, Nose and Embroidered Detail.
Small amount of Black (CC3) for Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 15cm (6in) tall.
Approx 15cm (6in) tall.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Sloth is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Joining slip stitches do not count in stitch count for a round.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Sloth is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Joining slip stitches do not count in stitch count for a round.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through. Similarly, the “htr” abbreviation used here is the equivalent of the US “hdc” term.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through. Similarly, the “htr” abbreviation used here is the equivalent of the US “hdc” term.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Sloth sitting.
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Sloth Back
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Head
Stuff as you go.
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
With CC1, chain 6.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [5 dc, 2 ch] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 2: [5 dc, 4 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 1 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 1 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 6: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 1 dc. 42 sts
Change colour to MC.
Rnd 7: 5 dc in FLO, 2 dc in FLO of next st, [6 dc in FLO, 2 dc in FLO of next st} 5 times, 1 dc in FLO. 48 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around in BLO.
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 6 dc, 2 dc in next st, [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 1 dc. 54 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times, 1 dc. 48 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times, 1 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 16: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times, 1 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 17: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 18: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times, 1 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 19: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times, 1 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 20: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 21: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of stitches of last round and pull to close hole, weave in end.
Stuff as you go.
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
With CC1, chain 6.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [5 dc, 2 ch] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 2: [5 dc, 4 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 1 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 1 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 6: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 1 dc. 42 sts
Change colour to MC.
Rnd 7: 5 dc in FLO, 2 dc in FLO of next st, [6 dc in FLO, 2 dc in FLO of next st} 5 times, 1 dc in FLO. 48 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around in BLO.
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 6 dc, 2 dc in next st, [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 1 dc. 54 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times, 1 dc. 48 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times, 1 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 16: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times, 1 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 17: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 18: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times, 1 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 19: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times, 1 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 20: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 21: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of stitches of last round and pull to close hole, weave in end.
Body
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 12-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 20-23: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 12-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 20-23: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Arm - make 2
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times, 9 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 7-18: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times, 9 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 7-18: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Leg - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times, 9 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 7-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 20-21: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times, 9 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 7-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 20-21: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Nose
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Eye Patch - Left
With CC2, chain 10.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [9 dc, 2 ch] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 2: 5 dc, [1 dc, 1 htr] in next st, [2 htr in next st] 3 times, 3 htr in 2 ch-sp, 1 htr, 1 dc, 2 dc2tog, 3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp, sl st in beg dc to join. 26 sts
Fasten off.
With CC2, chain 10.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [9 dc, 2 ch] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 2: 5 dc, [1 dc, 1 htr] in next st, [2 htr in next st] 3 times, 3 htr in 2 ch-sp, 1 htr, 1 dc, 2 dc2tog, 3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp, sl st in beg dc to join. 26 sts
Fasten off.
Eye Patch - Right
With CC2, chain 10.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [9 dc, 2 ch] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 2: 3 dc, 2 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 htr, 3 htr in 2 ch-sp, [2 htr in next st] 3 times, [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 5 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp, sl st in beg dc to join. 26 sts
Fasten off.
With CC2, chain 10.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [9 dc, 2 ch] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 2: 3 dc, 2 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 htr, 3 htr in 2 ch-sp, [2 htr in next st] 3 times, [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 5 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp, sl st in beg dc to join. 26 sts
Fasten off.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Sloth - front right
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Sloth - back left
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Flatten the nose in half and sew in place in the centre of the face. Sew the Eye Patches in place either side of the Nose.
Sew the Eyes in place on top of the Eye Patches.
Sew the Body on to the bottom of the Head.
Pin the limbs in place side on to the Head so the Sloth looks like he is looking sideways. The bottom edge of the Leg should be in line with Rnd 6 of the Body approx. The bottom edge of the Arm should be in line with Rnd 15 of the Body approx.
Stitch the tips of the “Hands” together and the tips of the “Feet” together.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Flatten the nose in half and sew in place in the centre of the face. Sew the Eye Patches in place either side of the Nose.
Sew the Eyes in place on top of the Eye Patches.
Sew the Body on to the bottom of the Head.
Pin the limbs in place side on to the Head so the Sloth looks like he is looking sideways. The bottom edge of the Leg should be in line with Rnd 6 of the Body approx. The bottom edge of the Arm should be in line with Rnd 15 of the Body approx.
Stitch the tips of the “Hands” together and the tips of the “Feet” together.
Sloth - face detail
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Sloth - back detail
Sloth - claw detail
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Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following, all using CC2:
The mouth below the nose.
The “fur” detail on the back of the Body.
The “fur” detail on the back of the Head.
The “claw” detail on the hands and feet.
Finally, using CC1 embroider the single stitch highlight on each eye.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following, all using CC2:
The mouth below the nose.
The “fur” detail on the back of the Body.
The “fur” detail on the back of the Head.
The “claw” detail on the hands and feet.
Finally, using CC1 embroider the single stitch highlight on each eye.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
