#lockdownamichallenge - No 20 - Bumble Bee
No 20 Bee
Scroll down for more pictures!
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
25g approx of Black (MC) for Body, Head, Tail, Eyes and Mouth.
15g approx of Bright Yellow (CC1) for Face, Stripes, and Legs.
15g approx of Pale Aqua (CC2) for Wings, Antennae and Eye Highlight.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
25g approx of Black (MC) for Body, Head, Tail, Eyes and Mouth.
15g approx of Bright Yellow (CC1) for Face, Stripes, and Legs.
15g approx of Pale Aqua (CC2) for Wings, Antennae and Eye Highlight.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 18cm (7in) tall from Bee’s bottom to top[ of antennae.
Approx 18cm (7in) tall from Bee’s bottom to top[ of antennae.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Bumble Bee is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Bumble Bee is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Bumble Bee Front
Bumble Bee Front Right
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Bumble Bee Back
Bumble Bee Left Side
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Scroll down for more pictures!
Body
Stuff as you go. Worked from the bottom up. Do not worry about the jagged colour changes - these will be hidden by the Wings and Tail.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 20-22: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go. Worked from the bottom up. Do not worry about the jagged colour changes - these will be hidden by the Wings and Tail.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 20-22: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Head
Stuff the head as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 7: Working in BLO, dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 9-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 15: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 17: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 18: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Stuff the head as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 7: Working in BLO, dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 9-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 15: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 17: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 18: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Wing - make 4
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Antenna - make 2
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Leg - make 4
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 1 dc, 3 dc2tog, 5 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 6: 2 dc2tog, 5 dc. 7 sts
Stuff foot.
Rnd 7: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Fasten off. Stuff top of leg lightly.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 1 dc, 3 dc2tog, 5 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 6: 2 dc2tog, 5 dc. 7 sts
Stuff foot.
Rnd 7: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Fasten off. Stuff top of leg lightly.
Tail
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 3 dc2tog. 9 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 3 dc2tog. 9 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Fasten off.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Nose
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Bumble Bee Back Left
Bumble Bee Right Side
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Bumble Bee Face Down
Bumble Bee Base
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- Making Up
- Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
- Make sure the colour change “jags” between stripes face the back of the Body (they will be concealed by the Wings). Position the Head so that the colour change “jag” between the yellow of the face and the black sits at the bottom of the face - this will be concealed by the top edge of the Body. Stitch the Head and Body together.
- Sew the Nose onto the centre of the face and the Eyes above it, spaced 4 stitches apart.
- Sew the Antennae on to the top of the Head, spaced 3 stitches apart.
- Sew the first pair of Wings to the back of the Body so that they sit just below the top yellow stripe on the Body.
- Sew the second pair of Wings in place in line with the middle yellow stripe on the Body - they will be sitting slightly on top of the first pair.
- Sew the stuffed tail cone in place below the Wings.
- Sew two of the Legs in place in line with the top stripe of the Body - looking from the side they will be roughly in line with the Antennae.
- Sew the other two Legs in place in line with Rnd 5 of the body, located towards the front of the Body so that the Bee can sit down.
Bumble Bee Face Detail
Embroidered Details
Using the photo as a guide, stitch the following use MC to embroider the Bee’s smile and CC3 to embroider the single stitch highlight on each eye.
All done!
Using the photo as a guide, stitch the following use MC to embroider the Bee’s smile and CC3 to embroider the single stitch highlight on each eye.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
