#lockdownamichallenge - No 18 - Fox
No 18 Fox
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
45g approx of Ginger (MC)- for Body, Head, Arms, Legs, Ears and Tail.
15g approx of Cream (CC1) for Chin, Chest, Tip of Tail, Ear detail and Eye highlight.
Small amount of Black (CC2) for Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
45g approx of Ginger (MC)- for Body, Head, Arms, Legs, Ears and Tail.
15g approx of Cream (CC1) for Chin, Chest, Tip of Tail, Ear detail and Eye highlight.
Small amount of Black (CC2) for Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 15 cm (6in) tall.
Approx 15 cm (6in) tall.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
The Fox’s cream chest and chin are worked in turned rows.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Elephant is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting and turning chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
The Fox’s cream chest and chin are worked in turned rows.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Elephant is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting and turning chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones-please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character's shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones-please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character's shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Fox Right Side
|
Fox Front
|
Body
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 15-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 19-21: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 15-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 19-21: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Head
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
Stuff as you go.
With MC chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [6 dc, 2 ch] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * one more time. 24 sts
Rnd 4: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 2 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 2 dc. 36 sts
Rnds 6-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 18: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
Stuff as you go.
With MC chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [6 dc, 2 ch] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * one more time. 24 sts
Rnd 4: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 2 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 2 dc. 36 sts
Rnds 6-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 18: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Snout
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 21 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 27 sts
Fasten off. Stuff the snout.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 21 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 27 sts
Fasten off. Stuff the snout.
Ear
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 6: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 7: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 16 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 6: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 7: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 16 sts
Fasten off.
Nose
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Chin
Worked in turned rows. Chains are not counted in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 3.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 2 dc. Turn. 2 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] twice. Turn. 4 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn 6 sts
Row 4: 1 ch,, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 5: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Row 6: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 12 sts
Row 7: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 14 sts
Row 8:1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 12 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 16 sts
Row 9:1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 10: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 14 sts
Row 11: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 12 sts
Row 12: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 10 sts
Row 13: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 8 sts
Row 14: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. DO NOT TURN. 6 sts
To neaten the edge, now work 1 dc, 1 ch in the end of each row right round the edge of the piece and back across the top of Row 14.
Fasten off.
Worked in turned rows. Chains are not counted in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 3.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 2 dc. Turn. 2 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] twice. Turn. 4 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn 6 sts
Row 4: 1 ch,, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 5: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Row 6: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 12 sts
Row 7: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 14 sts
Row 8:1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 12 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 16 sts
Row 9:1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 10: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 14 sts
Row 11: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 12 sts
Row 12: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 10 sts
Row 13: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 8 sts
Row 14: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. DO NOT TURN. 6 sts
To neaten the edge, now work 1 dc, 1 ch in the end of each row right round the edge of the piece and back across the top of Row 14.
Fasten off.
Chest
Worked in turned rows from the bottom up. Chains are not counted in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 5.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 4 dc. Turn. 4 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 6 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Rows 5-7: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 8: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 8 sts
Rows 9-10: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 11: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 6 sts
Row 12: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 13: 1 ch, dc across. DO NOT TURN.
To neaten edge, now work 1 dc in the end of each row down the side, 1 dc in each of the 4 unused loops of the starting chain along the bottom and 1 dc in the end of each row up the other side, back up to the start of Row 13.
Fasten off.
Worked in turned rows from the bottom up. Chains are not counted in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 5.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 4 dc. Turn. 4 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 6 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Rows 5-7: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 8: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 8 sts
Rows 9-10: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 11: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 6 sts
Row 12: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 13: 1 ch, dc across. DO NOT TURN.
To neaten edge, now work 1 dc in the end of each row down the side, 1 dc in each of the 4 unused loops of the starting chain along the bottom and 1 dc in the end of each row up the other side, back up to the start of Row 13.
Fasten off.
Arm - make 2
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 8-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 8-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Foot - make 2
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Tail
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 10: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 14: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 10: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 14: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Fox Back
Fox Back Right
|
Fox Base
Fox Back Left
|
Making Up
- Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
- Start with the head. Sew the Snout to the Head so that the top of it sits roughly in line with Rnd 11 of the head.
- Next, attach the flat Chin piece - pinning in place first to make sure it’s sitting evenly. The pointed part should sit at the end of the Snout, with the more rounded end down on the bottom of the Head.
- Once the Chin is sewn on, attach the Nose to the tip of the Snout.
- Attach the eyes so that the bottom edge of them sits just above the seam between the top of the Snout and the Head - space them about 5 stitches apart.
- Using the photos as a guide to position, attach the Ears to the Head, curving them forward slightly.
- Attach the Body to the bottom of the Head and then sew the Chest piece on to the front of the Body, being sure to centre it in line with the facial features and with the top edge of it butting up to the top edge of the Body under the chin.
- Attach the Arms around 3 rounds down from the top edge of the Body, wither side of the chest - looking from the side they should be roughly in line wit the Ears.
- Attach the feet roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body, set towards the front of the Body so the Fox can sit down.
- Attach the tail roughly in line with Rnd 5 of the Body, centred on the back - secure the tail in an upright position by stitching through the tail and the Body for about 1 cm up both sides of the tail from the base.
Fox Claw Detail
|
Fox Face Detail
|
Embroidered Details
All done!
- Using the photos as a guide use a length of CC1 to embroider the detail on the Ears and to add the single stitch highlight to the Eyes.
- Use CC2 to embroider the Fox’s smile, the two stars on his chest and the claw detail on his Arms and Feet.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result - or email me [email protected]
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result - or email me [email protected]
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
