#lockdownamichallenge - No 17 - Octopus
No 17 Octopus
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
40g approx of Light Green(MC)- for Body, Eyes and Tentacles.
15g approx of White (CC1) for Sailor Hat, Eyes and embroidered details.
10 g approx of Blue (CC2) for Sailor Hat.
10 g approx of Teal (CC3)for tentacle detail and Sailor Hat detail.
Small amount of Black (CC4) for Eyes and mouth.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
40g approx of Light Green(MC)- for Body, Eyes and Tentacles.
15g approx of White (CC1) for Sailor Hat, Eyes and embroidered details.
10 g approx of Blue (CC2) for Sailor Hat.
10 g approx of Teal (CC3)for tentacle detail and Sailor Hat detail.
Small amount of Black (CC4) for Eyes and mouth.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 13 cm (5in) tall.and 18 cm (7 in) wide between the ends of the Tentacles.
Approx 13 cm (5in) tall.and 18 cm (7 in) wide between the ends of the Tentacles.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Octopus is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Octopus is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Decreasing in BLO:
Dc2tog in BLO: Insert hook in BLO of next st, yrh, pull up a loop through st (2 loops on hook), insert hook in BLO of next st, yrh, pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yrh again, pull through all three loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Decreasing in BLO:
Dc2tog in BLO: Insert hook in BLO of next st, yrh, pull up a loop through st (2 loops on hook), insert hook in BLO of next st, yrh, pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yrh again, pull through all three loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations- Please read this bit, it's important! 😃
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones-please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your characters shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones-please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your characters shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Octopus Right Side
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Octopus Left Side
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More pictures further down the page!
Body
Worked from the bottom up.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Working in BLO of each st, dc around.
Rnd 8: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 9: [8 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 27 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 13: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 14: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 23: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 25: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 26: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Worked from the bottom up.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Working in BLO of each st, dc around.
Rnd 8: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 9: [8 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 27 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 13: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 14: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 23: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 25: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 26: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Tentacle - make 8
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. 9 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. 9 sts
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice, 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice. 9 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. 10 sts
Rnd 8: 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. 11 sts
Rnd 9: 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. 11 sts
Rnd 10: 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc2tog, 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 11: 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 3 dc2tog, 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 12: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] x 2. 13 sts
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. 9 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. 9 sts
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice, 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice. 9 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. 10 sts
Rnd 8: 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. 11 sts
Rnd 9: 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. 11 sts
Rnd 10: 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc2tog, 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 11: 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 3 dc2tog, 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 12: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] x 2. 13 sts
Fasten off.
Sailor Hat
Worked from top down.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [6 sl st in FLO, 1 ch} 6 times. 36 sts (+ 6 chains).
Rnd 8: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: Sl st in each st around.
Fasten off.
Worked from top down.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [6 sl st in FLO, 1 ch} 6 times. 36 sts (+ 6 chains).
Rnd 8: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: Sl st in each st around.
Fasten off.
Eye Ball - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Fasten off. Attach MC in any stitch of Rnd 2.
Rnd 3: Working in BLO [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Working in BLO, dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Fasten off. Attach MC in any stitch of Rnd 2.
Rnd 3: Working in BLO [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Working in BLO, dc around.
Fasten off.
Pupil - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc., join with a sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc., join with a sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Octopus Back
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Octopus Base
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Making up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Stitch the tentacles into place evenly spaced around the body, with them curving upwards.
Stuff the Eye Balls and sew in place so the bottom of them lines up roughly with Rnd 17 of the body. Attach the Pupils to the white of the Eye Balls - offset up and to the right slightly.
Stuff the Sailor Hat and attach to the top of the Body angled to one side.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Stitch the tentacles into place evenly spaced around the body, with them curving upwards.
Stuff the Eye Balls and sew in place so the bottom of them lines up roughly with Rnd 17 of the body. Attach the Pupils to the white of the Eye Balls - offset up and to the right slightly.
Stuff the Sailor Hat and attach to the top of the Body angled to one side.
Tentacle embroidered detail
Embroidered details
Use CC1 to embroider the Highlights on the Eyes and, referring to the photos, embroider the stars on the Body.
Use CC3 to work a line of running stitch around the top edge of the Sailor Hat.
With the photos as a guide, use pins to mark eight evenly spaced points down the top of each tentacle and then use CC3 to oversew three times at each point to create the decorative detail.
All done!
Use CC1 to embroider the Highlights on the Eyes and, referring to the photos, embroider the stars on the Body.
Use CC3 to work a line of running stitch around the top edge of the Sailor Hat.
With the photos as a guide, use pins to mark eight evenly spaced points down the top of each tentacle and then use CC3 to oversew three times at each point to create the decorative detail.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS.COM 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS.COM 2021
