#lockdownamichallenge - No 15 - Little Kitty
Scroll down for more pics of this little kitty!
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
30g approx of Pale Pink (MC)- for Body, Head, Ears, Legs, Arms and Tail.
10g approx of Very Pale Grey (CC1) for Ear Inserts, Muzzle, Paws, Tail tip and Flower Centres.
Small amount of Bright Pink (CC2) for Nose and Flowers.
Small amount of Dark Grey (CC3) for embroidered whiskers and claws.
Small amount of Black (CC4) for Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
30g approx of Pale Pink (MC)- for Body, Head, Ears, Legs, Arms and Tail.
10g approx of Very Pale Grey (CC1) for Ear Inserts, Muzzle, Paws, Tail tip and Flower Centres.
Small amount of Bright Pink (CC2) for Nose and Flowers.
Small amount of Dark Grey (CC3) for embroidered whiskers and claws.
Small amount of Black (CC4) for Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
19 cm (7.5 in) from bottom of feet to tips of ears.
19 cm (7.5 in) from bottom of feet to tips of ears.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial at: https://mycrochetchums.weebly.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html
The Kitty is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Change colour on the last yrh on last stitch of previous round.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial at: https://mycrochetchums.weebly.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html
The Kitty is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Change colour on the last yrh on last stitch of previous round.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through. Similarly, the "htr" abbreviation used here refers to UK half treble crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is half double crochet - US Crocheters need to work half double crochet everywhere this pattern says "htr".
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through. Similarly, the "htr" abbreviation used here refers to UK half treble crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is half double crochet - US Crocheters need to work half double crochet everywhere this pattern says "htr".
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
Kitty Front Right Side
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Kitty Left Side
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More pictures further down the page!
Body
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Head
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
Stuff as you go.
With MC chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 19: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
Stuff as you go.
With MC chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 19: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 4dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc in next st, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 8: [2 dc in next st, 7 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 22 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 4dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc in next st, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 8: [2 dc in next st, 7 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 22 sts
Fasten off.
Ear Insert - make 2
With CC1, chain 2.
Rnd 1: Starting in second chain from hook, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 2 sts
Rnd 2: ch1, [2 dc in next st] twice. Turn. 4 sts
Rnd 3: ch 1, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. 6 sts
Fasten off.
With CC1, chain 2.
Rnd 1: Starting in second chain from hook, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 2 sts
Rnd 2: ch1, [2 dc in next st] twice. Turn. 4 sts
Rnd 3: ch 1, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Muzzle - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Nose
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off, fold flat and stitch across the top to close.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off, fold flat and stitch across the top to close.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with sl st to beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with sl st to beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Arm - make 2
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
With CC1, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 16 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 7: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Change to MC. Stuff hand.
Rnds 9-14: Dc around.
Fasten off.
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
With CC1, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 16 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 7: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Change to MC. Stuff hand.
Rnds 9-14: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Leg - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 5 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 7: 3 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 12 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 8-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 8 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 5 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 7: 3 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 12 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 8-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 8 sts
Fasten off.
Tail
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 6-17: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 6-17: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Big Flower
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 2: [1sl st, 4 ch, starting in 2nd chain from hook, 1 htr, 1 dc] 5 times. 15 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 2: [1sl st, 4 ch, starting in 2nd chain from hook, 1 htr, 1 dc] 5 times. 15 sts
Fasten off.
Big Flower Centre
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 5 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 5 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 5 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 5 sts
Fasten off.
Small Flower
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, [1sl st, 4 ch, starting in 2nd chain from hook, 1 htr, 1 dc] 5 times. 15 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, [1sl st, 4 ch, starting in 2nd chain from hook, 1 htr, 1 dc] 5 times. 15 sts
Fasten off.
Small Flower Centre
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Kitty Back
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Kitty Base
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Kitty Front
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Making up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Body to the Head.
Sew the two Muzzle pieces to the Head (on one of the flat wide sides of the Head] with the bottom of them in line roughly with Rnd 5 of the Head.)
Sew the Nose on to the Head, nestling it between the top of the two Muzzle pieces.
Sew the Eyes to the Head, sitting either side of the top edge of the nose.
Sew the Ears to the Head, with the bottom of them sitting roughly in line with Rnd 7 of the Head. Curve the Ears round slightly as you sew into place.
Sew the Ear inserts into the Ears.
Sew the Arms onto either side of the Body, sitting about 2 rows down from the top of the Body.
Sew the Legs side by side onto the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body, located towards the front of the Body so that the Kitty can sit down.
Sew the Tail onto the Body at the back, roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Body.
Sew the Big Flower to the top right of the front of the Body and the Little Flower to the bottom left. Stitch the Flower Centres into place.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Body to the Head.
Sew the two Muzzle pieces to the Head (on one of the flat wide sides of the Head] with the bottom of them in line roughly with Rnd 5 of the Head.)
Sew the Nose on to the Head, nestling it between the top of the two Muzzle pieces.
Sew the Eyes to the Head, sitting either side of the top edge of the nose.
Sew the Ears to the Head, with the bottom of them sitting roughly in line with Rnd 7 of the Head. Curve the Ears round slightly as you sew into place.
Sew the Ear inserts into the Ears.
Sew the Arms onto either side of the Body, sitting about 2 rows down from the top of the Body.
Sew the Legs side by side onto the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body, located towards the front of the Body so that the Kitty can sit down.
Sew the Tail onto the Body at the back, roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Body.
Sew the Big Flower to the top right of the front of the Body and the Little Flower to the bottom left. Stitch the Flower Centres into place.
Kitty Paw Detail
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Kitty Face Detail
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Embroidered details
Use CC1 to embroider the Highlights on the Eyes and CC3 to embroider the whiskers and claws.
All done!
Use CC1 to embroider the Highlights on the Eyes and CC3 to embroider the whiskers and claws.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
