Free Amigurumi Crochet Highland Cow Pattern
No 57 Highland Cow
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Right, let's get on with the pattern!
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 50g approx of Ginger Gold (383) for Body, Head, Ears, Head Tuft and Tail.
CC1: 30g approx of Camel (502) for Arms, Legs and Tail.
CC2: 20 g approx of Black Coffee (162) for Hooves and Embroidered Details.
CC3: 10 g approx of Bridal White (105) for Muzzle, Horns and Eye Highlight.
CC4: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes (or use Black Coffee 162).
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 50g approx of Ginger Gold (383) for Body, Head, Ears, Head Tuft and Tail.
CC1: 30g approx of Camel (502) for Arms, Legs and Tail.
CC2: 20 g approx of Black Coffee (162) for Hooves and Embroidered Details.
CC3: 10 g approx of Bridal White (105) for Muzzle, Horns and Eye Highlight.
CC4: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes (or use Black Coffee 162).
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Hook
3mm
3mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
18 cm (7.5in) approx from head to tail.
18 cm (7.5in) approx from head to tail.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Where colour changes are indicated, they take place on the last yrh of the last dc of the previous rnd.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Magic Ring Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Highland Cow is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Where colour changes are indicated, they take place on the last yrh of the last dc of the previous rnd.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Magic Ring Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Highland Cow is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Sign up to the Mailing List at the top of the page to access free printable PDF versions of this pattern in UK or US terms.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Sign up to the Mailing List at the top of the page to access free printable PDF versions of this pattern in UK or US terms.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Highland Cow - Right Side
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Highland Cow - Left Side
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Basic Body
Worked from the bottom upwards. Stuff as you go. The Body is made in two stages: the basic shape is made first in the usual ami style and then the ruffles creating the shaggy finish are made. Rnds 7-20 are worked in the Back Loop Only (BLO).
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnds 10-14: : Working in the BLO for the whole round, dc around.
Rnd 15: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48sts
Rnd 16: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 17: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 18: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 19: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 20: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 21: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 22: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Body onto the Head, once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom upwards. Stuff as you go. The Body is made in two stages: the basic shape is made first in the usual ami style and then the ruffles creating the shaggy finish are made. Rnds 7-20 are worked in the Back Loop Only (BLO).
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnds 10-14: : Working in the BLO for the whole round, dc around.
Rnd 15: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48sts
Rnd 16: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 17: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 18: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 19: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 20: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 21: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 22: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Body onto the Head, once you've made all the parts.
Body Ruffles
With the bottom of the Body facing away from you, attach MC to the last unused Front Loop of Rnd 20. Work 1 dc in that first stitch, chain 6, miss the next stitch. Repeat the sequence of [1 dc, 6 ch, miss next st] working back through all the unused front loops of Rnds 20 - Rnd 7, moving down the Body, finishing with a sl st in the first unused front loop of Rnd 7.
Fasten off. Weave in yarn tail.
With the bottom of the Body facing away from you, attach MC to the last unused Front Loop of Rnd 20. Work 1 dc in that first stitch, chain 6, miss the next stitch. Repeat the sequence of [1 dc, 6 ch, miss next st] working back through all the unused front loops of Rnds 20 - Rnd 7, moving down the Body, finishing with a sl st in the first unused front loop of Rnd 7.
Fasten off. Weave in yarn tail.
Head
Worked from the bottom upwards. Stuff as you go. The Head is made in two stages: the basic shape is made first in the usual ami style and then the ruffles creating the shaggy Head Tuft are made. Rnds 17-19 are worked in the Back Loop Only (BLO).
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [11 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 39 sts
Rnds 8-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [11 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 17: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 18: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 19: Working in the BLO for the whole round, 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through Back Loop Only of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Worked from the bottom upwards. Stuff as you go. The Head is made in two stages: the basic shape is made first in the usual ami style and then the ruffles creating the shaggy Head Tuft are made. Rnds 17-19 are worked in the Back Loop Only (BLO).
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [11 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 39 sts
Rnds 8-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [11 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 17: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 18: Working in the BLO for the whole round, [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 19: Working in the BLO for the whole round, 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through Back Loop Only of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Head Tuft
With the bottom of the Head facing you, attach MC to the last unused Front Loop of Rnd 20. Work 1 dc in that first stitch, chain 7. Repeat the sequence of [1 dc, 7 ch] working back through all the unused front loops of Rnds 19 - Rnd 17, moving up to the top of the Head, finishing with a sl st in the first unused front loop of Rnd 17.
Fasten off. Weave in yarn tail.
With the bottom of the Head facing you, attach MC to the last unused Front Loop of Rnd 20. Work 1 dc in that first stitch, chain 7. Repeat the sequence of [1 dc, 7 ch] working back through all the unused front loops of Rnds 19 - Rnd 17, moving up to the top of the Head, finishing with a sl st in the first unused front loop of Rnd 17.
Fasten off. Weave in yarn tail.
Muzzle
Worked from front of Muzzle back towards Head. Stuff at the end. Chains are not included in the stitch count. This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With CC3, chain 5.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 4 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 4 dc in other side of ch, 2 ch. 8 sts
Rnd 2: [4 dc, 4 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 16 sts
Rnd 3: *4 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times**; rep from * to ** once more. 24 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Muzzle to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from front of Muzzle back towards Head. Stuff at the end. Chains are not included in the stitch count. This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With CC3, chain 5.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 4 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 4 dc in other side of ch, 2 ch. 8 sts
Rnd 2: [4 dc, 4 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 16 sts
Rnd 3: *4 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times**; rep from * to ** once more. 24 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Muzzle to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Ears - make 2
Worked from the tip of the Ear back towards the Head. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 4-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Ear to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the tip of the Ear back towards the Head. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 4-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Ear to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Horns - make 2
Made from the tip of the horn back towards the Head. Stuff as you go. The increases and decreases create the horn's curve.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in the next st, 3 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog. 5 sts
Rnd 4: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 sts
Rnd 6: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 7: 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnds 8-11: Repeat Rnd 7.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn Tail for sewing the Horn to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Made from the tip of the horn back towards the Head. Stuff as you go. The increases and decreases create the horn's curve.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in the next st, 3 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog. 5 sts
Rnd 4: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 sts
Rnd 6: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 7: 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnds 8-11: Repeat Rnd 7.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn Tail for sewing the Horn to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Arms - make 2
Made from the Hoof end up towards the shoulder. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Working in the BLO for the whole round, dc around.
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc,1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 7: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 14 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 12-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arm to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the Hoof end up towards the shoulder. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Working in the BLO for the whole round, dc around.
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc,1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 7: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 14 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 12-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arm to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Legs - make 2
Made from the Hoof end up towards the top of the Leg. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Working in the BLO for the whole round, dc around.
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 8 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 22 sts
Rnd 8: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 20 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 1 dc, [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 15 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 1 dc, [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 16-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Leg to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the Hoof end up towards the top of the Leg. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Working in the BLO for the whole round, dc around.
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 8 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 22 sts
Rnd 8: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 20 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 1 dc, [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 15 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 1 dc, [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 16-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Leg to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Tail
Worked from the Body end of the Tail down to the tip. Do not stuff Rnds 1-9. Stuff as you go from Rnd 10 onwards. Make sure you have a long starting yarn tail.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnds 2-9: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 10: 2 dc in each st around. 8 sts
Rnd 11: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 4 times. 12 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end. You'll use the long starting yarn tail to sew the Tail to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the Body end of the Tail down to the tip. Do not stuff Rnds 1-9. Stuff as you go from Rnd 10 onwards. Make sure you have a long starting yarn tail.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnds 2-9: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 10: 2 dc in each st around. 8 sts
Rnd 11: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 4 times. 12 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end. You'll use the long starting yarn tail to sew the Tail to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Highland Cow - Back View
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Highland Cow - Base
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the centre line of the Head, taking them under and up the back of the Head - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
Sew the Body to the Head.
Sew the Muzzle to the Head. Its top edge should sit about 2 Rnds down from the front of the Head Tuft.
Sew the Eyes in place - their bottom edges should sit just on the top edge of the Muzzle and they should be placed about 4 stitches apart.
Sew the Horns in place either side of the Head Tuft, curving up and inwards and sitting about 4 stitches back from the outer edge of each Eye.
Pinch the open edge of each Ear into a fold and secure into this shape with a few stitches. Sew each Ear in place just below the Horns.
Sew the Arms in place either side of the Body, attaching them about three rounds down from where the Head and Body join and making sure one of the flat sides of each Hoof - as you look at the bottom of it - is facing forwards.
Sew the Legs in place on the base of the Body, in the flat area without ruffles and set forward slightly so the Highland Cow can sit on his bottom, attaching them roughly in line with Rnd 5 of the Body and making sure one of the flat sides of each Hoof - as you look at the bottom of it - is facing forwards.
Sew the Tail in place, centred on the back of the Body and with the bottom edge of the join sitting roughly in line with Rnd 9 of the Body.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the centre line of the Head, taking them under and up the back of the Head - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
Sew the Body to the Head.
Sew the Muzzle to the Head. Its top edge should sit about 2 Rnds down from the front of the Head Tuft.
Sew the Eyes in place - their bottom edges should sit just on the top edge of the Muzzle and they should be placed about 4 stitches apart.
Sew the Horns in place either side of the Head Tuft, curving up and inwards and sitting about 4 stitches back from the outer edge of each Eye.
Pinch the open edge of each Ear into a fold and secure into this shape with a few stitches. Sew each Ear in place just below the Horns.
Sew the Arms in place either side of the Body, attaching them about three rounds down from where the Head and Body join and making sure one of the flat sides of each Hoof - as you look at the bottom of it - is facing forwards.
Sew the Legs in place on the base of the Body, in the flat area without ruffles and set forward slightly so the Highland Cow can sit on his bottom, attaching them roughly in line with Rnd 5 of the Body and making sure one of the flat sides of each Hoof - as you look at the bottom of it - is facing forwards.
Sew the Tail in place, centred on the back of the Body and with the bottom edge of the join sitting roughly in line with Rnd 9 of the Body.
Highland Cow - Face Detail
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Highland Cow - Hoof Detail
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Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following:
Using a length of CC1, create the "split" on the front of each Hoof. If you're not sure how to do this, have a look at my Amigurumi Toes Photo Tutorial which uses the same principle and shows you how to pull the yarn up to create the shape and how to fasten off, securing it in place. You can find the tutorial HERE.
With CC2, embroider his mouth and nostrils.
With CC3, embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following:
Using a length of CC1, create the "split" on the front of each Hoof. If you're not sure how to do this, have a look at my Amigurumi Toes Photo Tutorial which uses the same principle and shows you how to pull the yarn up to create the shape and how to fasten off, securing it in place. You can find the tutorial HERE.
With CC2, embroider his mouth and nostrils.
With CC3, embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: pia@mycrochetchums.com - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: pia@mycrochetchums.com - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
