Free Amigurumi Crochet Clownfish Pattern
Crochet your own Clownfish!
Let's get started...
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g.
MC: 25g approx of Royal Orange (189) for Body , Tail and Fins.
CC1: 10g approx of Jet Black (110) for Stripes, Fins and Eyes.
CC2: 5g approx of Snow White (106) for Stripes and Eyes.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Gecko and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g.
MC: 25g approx of Royal Orange (189) for Body , Tail and Fins.
CC1: 10g approx of Jet Black (110) for Stripes, Fins and Eyes.
CC2: 5g approx of Snow White (106) for Stripes and Eyes.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Gecko and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Hook
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
The Clownfish is 14 cm long.
The Clownfish is 14 cm long.
Pattern Notes
The Clownfish head, Body & Tail is made using joined rounds so that there are no jagged steps between the colours. Full instructions are given in the Body part of the pattern but you can also find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
The Fins are made amigurumi style in a continuous spiral without joins.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Clownfish is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Make all the parts first then assemble in order shown in the Making Up instructions.
The Clownfish head, Body & Tail is made using joined rounds so that there are no jagged steps between the colours. Full instructions are given in the Body part of the pattern but you can also find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
The Fins are made amigurumi style in a continuous spiral without joins.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Clownfish is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Make all the parts first then assemble in order shown in the Making Up instructions.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
The pattern below is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
Increasing and Decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Standard Decrease: Insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yrh, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, pull through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Standard Increase: Work 2 dc in next st.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
The pattern below is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
- If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
- If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Increasing and Decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Standard Decrease: Insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yrh, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, pull through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Standard Increase: Work 2 dc in next st.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Crochet Clownfish - Right Side
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Crochet Clownfish - Left Side
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Head, Body & Tail
Made as one piece, using joined rounds. Join each round with a sl st in BLO of beg dc, then work first st of next round into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined round onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from the prev round, do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins don't count in the st count. Made from the Nose back to the Tail. Stuff as you go, don't stuff beyond Rnd 32. Last black stripe on end of tail is made separately.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. Join in BLO. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. Join. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. Join. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 24 sts
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 30 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 9: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 10: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 36 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 13: Dc around. Join.
Change to MC.
Rnds 14-17: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 18: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. Join. 30 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 20: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 21: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Join. 24 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 23: Dc around. Join.
Change to MC.
Rnd 24: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 25: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. Join. 21 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 27: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. Join. 18 sts
Rnd 28: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 29: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 30: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 31: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 12 sts
Rnds 32-33: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 34: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 18 sts
Rnd 35: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 36: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 4 times, 2 dc in next st. Join. 24 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 37: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 38: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 30 sts
Rnd 39: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 40: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 24 sts
Rnd 41: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 18 sts
Rnd 42: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join with a sl st through both loops of beg dc. 12 sts
Fasten off. Flatten the unstuffed Tail section and use yarn tail to sew through both layers of last rnd to close Tail. Weave in end.
Made as one piece, using joined rounds. Join each round with a sl st in BLO of beg dc, then work first st of next round into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined round onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from the prev round, do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins don't count in the st count. Made from the Nose back to the Tail. Stuff as you go, don't stuff beyond Rnd 32. Last black stripe on end of tail is made separately.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. Join in BLO. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. Join. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. Join. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 24 sts
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 30 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 9: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 10: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 36 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 13: Dc around. Join.
Change to MC.
Rnds 14-17: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 18: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. Join. 30 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 20: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 21: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Join. 24 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 23: Dc around. Join.
Change to MC.
Rnd 24: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 25: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. Join. 21 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 27: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. Join. 18 sts
Rnd 28: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 29: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 30: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 31: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 12 sts
Rnds 32-33: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 34: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 18 sts
Rnd 35: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 36: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 4 times, 2 dc in next st. Join. 24 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 37: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 38: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 30 sts
Rnd 39: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 40: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 24 sts
Rnd 41: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 18 sts
Rnd 42: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join with a sl st through both loops of beg dc. 12 sts
Fasten off. Flatten the unstuffed Tail section and use yarn tail to sew through both layers of last rnd to close Tail. Weave in end.
Tail Stripe
With CC1, chain 9.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, 2 sl st, 4 dc, 2 sl st. 8 sts
Fasten off. Use yarn tail to sew Tail Stripe over edge of Tail section. Weave in end.
With CC1, chain 9.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, 2 sl st, 4 dc, 2 sl st. 8 sts
Fasten off. Use yarn tail to sew Tail Stripe over edge of Tail section. Weave in end.
Crochet Clownfish - Front Left
Side Fins - make 2
Made from outer edge of Fin, back towards Body. Don't stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 8 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 16 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 8 times. 24 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 5: 1 dc2tog, 11 dc, 2 dc2tog, 11 dc, 1 dc2tog. 26 sts
Rnd 6: 1 dc2tog, 9 dc, 2 dc2tog, 9 dc, 1 dc2tog. 22 sts
Rnd 7: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 2 dc2tog, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog. 18 sts
Rnd 8: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Fin to Body once you've made all the pieces.
Made from outer edge of Fin, back towards Body. Don't stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 8 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 16 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 8 times. 24 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 5: 1 dc2tog, 11 dc, 2 dc2tog, 11 dc, 1 dc2tog. 26 sts
Rnd 6: 1 dc2tog, 9 dc, 2 dc2tog, 9 dc, 1 dc2tog. 22 sts
Rnd 7: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 2 dc2tog, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog. 18 sts
Rnd 8: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Fin to Body once you've made all the pieces.
Side Fin Stripe - make 2
With CC1, chain 13.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, 1 sl st, 10 dc, 1 sl st. 12 sts
Fasten off. Use yarn tail to sew Stripe over outer edge of Side Fin. Weave in end.
With CC1, chain 13.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, 1 sl st, 10 dc, 1 sl st. 12 sts
Fasten off. Use yarn tail to sew Stripe over outer edge of Side Fin. Weave in end.
Upper Front Fin
Made from outer edge of Fin back towards Body. Don't stuff. Chains are not included in the stitch count. This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in other side of chain work 6 dc. 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 1 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 14 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Upper Front Fin to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Upper Front Fin Stripe
With CC1, chain 16.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, 2 sl st, 11 dc, 2 sl st. 15 sts
Fasten off. Use yarn tail to sew Stripe over outer edge of Upper Front Fin. Weave in end.
Made from outer edge of Fin back towards Body. Don't stuff. Chains are not included in the stitch count. This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in other side of chain work 6 dc. 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 1 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 14 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Upper Front Fin to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Upper Front Fin Stripe
With CC1, chain 16.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, 2 sl st, 11 dc, 2 sl st. 15 sts
Fasten off. Use yarn tail to sew Stripe over outer edge of Upper Front Fin. Weave in end.
Lower Front Fins - make 2
Made from outer edge of Fin back towards Body. Don't stuff. Chains are not included in the stitch count. This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of the chain work 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 2 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 3: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 8 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Lower Front Fin to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Lower Front Fins Stripe - make 2
With CC1, chain 9.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, 2 sl st, 4 dc, 2 sl st. 8 sts
Fasten off. Use yarn tail to sew Stripe over outer edge of Lower Front Fin. Weave in end.
Made from outer edge of Fin back towards Body. Don't stuff. Chains are not included in the stitch count. This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of the chain work 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 2 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 3: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 8 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Lower Front Fin to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Lower Front Fins Stripe - make 2
With CC1, chain 9.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, 2 sl st, 4 dc, 2 sl st. 8 sts
Fasten off. Use yarn tail to sew Stripe over outer edge of Lower Front Fin. Weave in end.
Rear Fins (Upper & Lower) - make 2
Made from outer edge of Fin back towards Body. Don't stuff. Chains are not included in the stitch count. This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With MC, chain 5.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, 4 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of the chain work 4 dc, 2 ch. 8 sts
Row 2: [4 dc, 2 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Row 3: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Upper & Lower Rear Fins to the body once you've made all the parts.
Rear Fins Stripe - make 2
With CC1, chain 11.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, 2 sl st, 6 dc, 2 sl st. 10 sts
Fasten off. Use yarn tail to sew Stripe over outer edge of Upper & Lower Rear Fin. Weave in end.
Made from outer edge of Fin back towards Body. Don't stuff. Chains are not included in the stitch count. This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With MC, chain 5.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, 4 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of the chain work 4 dc, 2 ch. 8 sts
Row 2: [4 dc, 2 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Row 3: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Upper & Lower Rear Fins to the body once you've made all the parts.
Rear Fins Stripe - make 2
With CC1, chain 11.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, 2 sl st, 6 dc, 2 sl st. 10 sts
Fasten off. Use yarn tail to sew Stripe over outer edge of Upper & Lower Rear Fin. Weave in end.
Crochet Clownfish - Front
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc, join with sl st in beg dc. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Head section once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc, join with sl st in beg dc. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Head section once you've made all the parts.
Making Up
- Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
- There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly HERE.
- Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the centre line of the back of the Head, Body & Tail, this will help you to position the Fins and Eyes evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
- There's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website - you can find it HERE.
Crochet Clownfish - Underside
- Sew the Upper Front Fin to the top of the Body section, sitting between Rnds 14-19.
- Sew the Upper Rear Fin to the top of the Body section, sitting between Rnds 24-28.
- Sew the Lower Rear Fin to the bottom of the Body section, also sitting between Rnds 24-28.
- Sew the two Lower Front Fins to the bottom of the Body section, angled across it, joining the body at Rnd 14.
- Sew the Eyes in place either side of the Head section, spaced approx 4 sts apart, with their front edges sitting in line with Rnd 4-5.
Embroidered Details
- Use a length of CC1 to embroider the Clownfish's mouth.
- Use a length of CC2 with a yarn needle to embroider the single stitch highlight onto the Eyes.
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
You may print your PDF for personal use only (not for redistribution).
The patterns, files and all images are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. No part of the patterns may be sold, reproduced, transmitted, broadcast, translated, used for derivative works or published in any form.
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
You may print your PDF for personal use only (not for redistribution).
The patterns, files and all images are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. No part of the patterns may be sold, reproduced, transmitted, broadcast, translated, used for derivative works or published in any form.
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
